09/10/2026
Someone asked how route setters avoid overuse injuries.
Unfortunately, overuse injuries are very common amongst route setters, especially those who work full-time (which is most of our crew!), and it’s an aspect of the job that we try to be very mindful of!
The two biggest factors to preventing and managing overuse injuries is proper warmup and knowing when to not push yourself too hard. Before we start climbing we get dedicated time in our workday to warm up properly. Every setter has a different routine that fits their needs, but this often looks like warming up the fingers, mobility work and light resistance exercises, and always starting the session with easy climbs to get the body ready to move. Any setter who has any type of injury, or feels the start of an overuse issue rearing up, is encouraged to communicate that with the crew leaders and take measures to avoid situations that would aggravate the issue. No one wants injured setters, least of all the other setters!
Also, all setters on our crew who work full-time get one maintenance day per week - this is a day where instead of setting and climbing, they take care of other tasks that need to get done (ex: organizing our carts and hold rooms, replacing worn equipment, etc.) and get dedicated paid time to use for body maintenance, which can include things like stretching, yoga, or strength training.
