Ian Welsted Guiding

04/30/2026

Not difficult to see a lot of amazing art in a day in Mexico City.

04/08/2026

Guiding isn't all WI5 pillars and windy summits.

https://youtu.be/v3F7e_Oj-LA?si=c-OKEg80lOq_mjo2

A fun project last year cleaning up old mining detritus in front of Slesse, with

02/05/2026

It was a distinct pleasure and a highlight of the season to climb Polar Circus with .

It is a tricky one to get in safe conditions but as Avalanche.ca says,

"Polar Circus is likely the most sought-after ice climb in the world and is the ultimate route for an ice climber to tick off. " That is no doubt some Canadian hyperbole but none the less it is an incredible climb.

Pete and I summited Waddington together, now Polar Circus, I wonder what is next.

Dinner in Banff the next day with his lovely wife confirmed the need to treat these big objectives with the respect they deserve. Pete has always been good about saying that if the mountain isn't in condition we can do something else. He also told me that a highly respected Ouray guide told him he should save Polar Circus for when he had more experience, so glad we exceeded expectations;)

Thanks for another great trip Pete!

equipment.na

ca

01/21/2026

01/14/2026

Why climb Murchison when you could drytool 300 meters left of it and then make a spectacular traverse back to rappel it?

A fine day with Blake and Gavin, and a stellar Alberta character at YYC:)
ca .equipment.na

12/31/2025

https://alpineclubofcanada.ca/.../john-lauchlan-memorial

11/16/2025

Bogota, strong art showing at the panopticon of the National Museum, the MAMBO, and pretty much everywhere on the street.

A highlight, a paper print made by a prisoner using chlorhydrate of co***ne, seemed fitting though clearly the country is much more than its famous export.

10/06/2025

Friends, you want to get your tickets for this one.

In a month, on November 5th, , will be presenting at the coolest event at the festival. While the big crowds are upstairs with the headliners, downstairs in the club we will be seeing a presentation about some of the coolest alpine climbing going. For example, see the first photo of their
supported climb of Ultra Sar this past summer.

Happy to be asked to introduce Maarten at this event. See a couple of photos: when we introduced him to alpine FAs, on the north face of Storm Mountain, and a shot of I believe his first day ever at the Stanley Headwall.

Get your tickets early, I am advising, this always sells out .

09/23/2025

Triple Crown on The King.

Over the last 30 days we summitted Yuhhaihaskun (Robson) as three teams: Matt Reynolds and .nic , with , and with and Connor Arnason.

It is always a great adventure going up and down this truly big mountain, The King of the Rockies.

From the first 35 degree high pressure window with a social scene on the mountain, to Jeremy's successful climb on his third attempt, to the start of winter a few days ago, an incredible month.

Thanks to Mathew Zaleski for a mid June foray and to .mtn.guides who came along to The Dome,

See my blog entry at:

https://www.ianwelsted.com/guidingbloghome/triple-crown-on-the-king
equipment.na
ca

09/11/2025

https://mountainconditions.ca/reports/yuhhaihaskun-robson-icy-kain-face