08/26/2026
Preventative Maintenance Check #2 Cont.
( _ ) 13. Power steering fluid
( _ ) 14. Automatic transmission fluid
( _ ) 15. Oil and coolant leaks
( _ ) 16. Battery
( _ ) 17. Exhaust system
( _ ) 18. Differential fluid
( _ ) 19. Transmission fluid
( _ ) 20. Transfer case fluid
( _ ) 21. Brakes
( _ ) 22. Change oil and filter
( _ ) 23. Grease l**e points
( _ ) 24. Change fuel filter
( _ ) 25. Change Air cleaner
( _ ) 26. Mark down service miles in owners manual
( _ ) 27. Make P.M. reminder sticker
13. Power steering fluid
Check your power steering fluid. If it is low, make sure to add the right fluid. Check your owners manual as to not cause a system failure by adding the wrong fluid. If there is any doubt have a mechanic check it for you.
14. Automatic transmission fluid
With the engine running and in park with the park brake set check the automatic transmission fluid level. Also check the color and smell. If it is dark and has a burnt odor it needs further examination. You should have the oil and filter changed every 30,000 miles or according to your owners manual.
15. Oil and coolant leaks
Look around and under the engine and transmission area for any sign of leakage. Seepage and minor leaks may not be worth repairing, but at least you will have a good idea as to the problem if it gets worse. If you find a coolant leak, it should be repaired as soon as possible. This not only will save a breakdown but is an environmental issue as well. If there is any doubt have a mechanic check it for you.
16. Battery
Make sure that the top of the battery is clean. A battery can lose its charge if there is dirt between the positive and negative posts. If there is corrosion on the battery posts this needs to be cleaned off. Baking soda is the best thing to break down this corrosion. Mix some with water and brush on with an old paint brush. Then thoroughly flush with water until all the corrosion is gone. You can buy anti corrosion rings or a battery post aerosol to help keep the corrosion from forming. If your battery is one that you can check the electrolyte level in, you need to do so. Bring the level up to the full ring with distilled water. Most of the newer batteries are sealed and have a condition eye. This eye should be either green or blue. If it is black then this indicates a low charge. If the eye is clear or yellow, then the electrolyte is low and the battery needs to be replaced. This may also be a sign that the regulator is over charging the battery.
17. Exhaust system
Look over the exhaust system for any lose bolts, loose mountings or cracks. Cracking around the muffler inlet or outlet is common. If caught in time this could save you from losing part of the exhaust system on a trail. Seeing a muffler on the side of a trail is not uncommon.
18. Differential Fluid
19. Transmission fluid
20. Transfer case fluid
In knowing what to look for, you can check the condition of your transmission and axle gears, by looking at the fluid and not just checking the levels. On the drive axles the fluid is checked at the plug hole half way up on the differential housing or cover plate. The oil level is just to the bottom of the hole. Stick your finger in to get enough on it see if there is any metal flakes in the oil. If there is any metal in the oil, this can cause the bearings to fail and also the seals to leak. If caught early this can save a lot of money as well as a break down. The metal comes from the gears put under heavy load. And since there are no filters on these gear boxes, the only way to get rid of the metal flakes is to change the oil. This is true of the transmission and transfer case as well. The oil should not smell or look burnt. If you add to or change the oils in the differentials, transmission and transfer case, make sure you use the right oil. If you have a limited slip rear end you can damage the friction plates by using regular 90 weight oil. Also be very careful of the oil in the transfer case, some take A.T.F. while others use a heavier oil. If you find that the transfer case is low and the transmission is overfilled, you might have an internal leak. If there is any doubt have a mechanic check it for you.
21. Brakes
From under the vehicle look at the brakes. See if there is any leakage on or around the brakes. This could be from brake fluid or an axle seal. The brake shoes should bee free of any oil contamination. You should lift up the vehicle and remove a wheel just as you would to change a flat. One at a time you should remove a front and a rear wheel. ( Or complete Auto repair Service should do this for you) If you have disc brakes look at the pads to see if they need to be replaced due to wear. The pads should have even wear top to bottom and inner and outer should be the same thickness. If they do not there is a problem with the caliper hanging up. On drum brakes it will be necessary to remove a drum as well to see the shoes.
22. Change oil and filter
23. Grease l**e points
Now is the time to change the oil and oil filter and check the grease l**e points if needed. Always change the oil and filter at the same time. Make sure to check your oil at least once a month and keep it at the right level. Not doing so can burn up the engine.
24. Change fuel filter
25. Change air cleaner
Change the fuel and air cleaners at least once a year. If you drive on dusty roads this may have to be done more often.
Call today for and Appointment.
(435) 637-5337
carsautorepairutah.blogspot.com
North of Moab In Carbon county
6 miles South of Price, Helper
South of Spanish Fork, Provo, Utah
Local Shop with Local workers
Complete Auto Repair Service
(CARS)
(435) 637-5337
660 E. Main St. Wellington UT 84542
Hwy 191 / 6 Next to Post Office
carsautorepairutah.blogspot.com
CARS complete Auto Repair,Service,Wellington,Price,Helper,Utah,SLC, Repair,Mufflers,Exhaust,Brakes,Tires,4x4,Jeep,Alignment,Brakes,Tuneup, Oil Change
