09/23/2020
At the request of several students, I updated my newbie gear recommendations. Sorry for the length but is covers a lot and can save you significant money in the long run if you consider equipment purchases.
A few things go into selecting newbies’ boards and related gear.
• Any watersports experience can have an influence– dingy sailing, paddle boarding, surfing
• Where you would sail and what kind of wind you would typically get. Oceans, seas and large lakes (think Great Lakes) will have much more consistent winds and much bigger waves. This will have a big influence on what works.
• Your goals and level of commitment. If a speed freak and just want to blast around in flat water, or wanting to do freestyle and/or waves, you’ll choose differently. If just wanting to have a fun toy to have at your cottage to cruise around on, and have for visitors to try, that makes a big difference.
Many folks will suggest having at least one or two lessons before considering buying anything. This accomplishes a few things. It likely saves you a lot money in the long run, as 1) most folks either buy something too small, 2) they find somebody’s ancient big board for “cheap,” or 3) buy a good, true beginner board. Scenario 1 can be difficult to manage and can result in frustration, causing one to quit, and sell it all at a significant loss. In #2, you get a cheap board that might work perfectly well as a cruiser/toy at a cottage, but if not for that, good luck selling it, because you will want something better quickly. For # 3, you will have an ideal board for learning, but like #2, you will quickly outgrow its ability. If you don’t keep it as a cottage board, or you don’t want to keep it for others to learn on, you’ll be selling that one, also at a big loss. Think new car depreciation…as soon as it leaves the lot, price drops big time.
Taking a lesson seems like an avoidable, added expense, but it helps a few ways. You won’t have to purchase something you will quickly outgrow and sell, as any decent instructor will have a good beginner board for your first experience. I tell students that ask about what to buy, “you do not want to buy this board (my trainer), ” see 3 above. The first few hours are much easier if you have a big board so you can focus on working the sail, not balancing on the board. Once you can sail back and forth and get a feel for the sail, you can think about a “normal” sized board.
So, in the beginning, you need smaller sails and bigger boards. As you get better, it reverses - bigger sails and smaller boards.
After learning the basics, I tell folks to get a board that is big enough for the biggest person that will be on it, to be able to eventually use on light days comfortably. Floaty enough to uphaul on and slog around, but not a lot more. For lake sailing, I am partial to boards a little longer, and not excessively wide. They go upwind better (especially with a centerboard), are faster when slogging, and more directionally stable. That will eventually end up being your light wind board.
Again, for lake sailing, and depending on your size, I suggest getting the smallest board that has a centerboard - that ends up being about 150L for what's out there. That way if you want to go exploring, you can always get back as it will go upwind better than one without. The few available will be wide enough to provide stability once you are passed the basics. If you are over 200 #, you might want something more like 180L volume. My preference is a minimum of 75cm wide, again for stability and ease when tacking. I personally am not a fan of those over 85cm wide. Some folks love them, but I find the really short/wide boards less “fun” and harder to manage in any kind of chop. Again, these are my observations. See notes below with a list of what I found available.
For sail sizing, it is very influenced by a person’s weight. I start youngsters on as low as a 2.5 (think pre-teens – not real little kids). Lighter gals and big kids can go to a 3.5 or 4.0 depending on the wind and their strength. For most guys, a 5.5 would be a good choice as it will be big enough to move you around while learning. The idea is to get a size that is manageable for learning that will become your higher wind sail as you progress. Old, especially Dacron/cloth, sails are fine for a cottage board, but not much else (or to decorate your garage or man-cave walls). They will be frustrating on windy days, and you won’t know why.
Masts
The other item worth spending more than you’d like, is on a mast. Higher carbon % are nice and light, but so is your wallet. My recommendation is the larger the mast, the more you want light weight. Uphauling is way easier with a lighter mast. Hard core folks will say 100% everything for best performance. When you win the lottery or turn pro, go for it! My other reason for less carbon on smaller rigs is they are more durable. When you get better, and your “little rig” is used, it will be on higher wind days with higher risk of damage. My take on best bang for your buck:
• 490cm and up – 80% or higher
• 460 – 60-75%
• 430 and smaller – 40-50% is fine
There are standard diameter and reduced diameter offerings – SDM and RDM. I have both depending on size of sail. Physics tells me SDM should be lighter, so I lean that way. I know many people like the RDMs for increased durability, but unless you are doing tricks or wave sailing, I don’t think that is an issue. There does seem to be consensus that above 460cm, you should go with SDM. Make sure your masts and extensions match up when you buy.
Booms
For booms, there are 2 materials – carbon and aluminum. Carbon is noticeably lighter (again, so is your wallet) and stiffer. Easier to uphaul for beginners, but not so much an issue with the smaller size sails anyway. When you get to 7.5 sails and up, you could consider carbon. DO NOT buy an “entry level” boom. It will be lighter and cheaper at first, but this will eventually be your high wind boom on small sails, so you want good stuff there. Cheap booms have cheap components as well that may wear out or not perform in the long run (ask how I know). Also, be sure it has an articulating head – it allows the boom to rotate up/down independently of the mast. Fixed head booms will not accommodate higher or lower settings for taller or shorter folks resulting in added stress on the tubes, possibly leading to earlier failure (how do I know this?). There are several brands – I am sure they will all work fine.
Base and U joint
I prefer the Chinook 2 bolt mast base – the part actually mounted to the board. Single bolt ones typically need to be removed to transport your board. That adds to your setup and teardown time. I’ve also heard the single bolt ones might unscrew while sailing, but I think that only applies to folks doing a lot of sail spinning tricks. I still like knowing I have 2 bolts over one, holding things together.
I also prefer the hourglass style rubber U joint over the urethane tendon style. The more finicky sailors like the little bit of added stiffness, but they pay the price in durability. I read about guys changing the tendon at $20 a pop, every year or two. I don’t recall ever having a rubber one fail that was not obviously aged and falling apart after MANY years of service. For beginners and cruisers, you might even consider a mechanical joint – no rubber or urethane to age and break at all. They are also a lot easier when putting the mast on when in the water, especially on a wide board. I use them on my training rigs and longboard.
Extensions
There are two basic mast extensions – a US cup and Euro pin. I only have US cup, but know folks that like Euro pin. They claim the pin is easier to release when you want to de-rig or swap rigs. Whatever you can get a better price on, just remember to get compatible parts and stay with that style from then on.
Other items to consider if you get “hooked.”
I always wear a life jacket, even where it is mostly shallow. Good habit to have and makes water starting much easier in deep water which you will learn eventually. It keeps you warmer too. They have special "flotation aids" for sailing that are not officially Coast Guard approved because they aren't technically big enough. The smaller size is easier, but I like the extra flotation. I find kayak vests are cut high enough for harness clearance and don't restrict arm motion as much as a regular PFD. I've gotten those at West Marine/Boat US, Bass Pro, or anywhere that sell kayaks. West vests were better quality than "Kmart" versions....
I always wear a brimmed hat and use sunscreen. I bought a Shelta Hat on line. Most regular hats don't have a firm front brim and once wet, like to flop down over your eyes. Side brim protects the ears too. Noses and ears are the most carved up parts at cancer clinics.
Many folks don't, but I always wear:
• Sunglasses with a Croakie float/strap or watersport goggles. Less squinting and keeps the splashes out of my eyes.
• Water shoes. Zebra mussels, shells, rocks, broken glass, and lost fishing lures can be an issue depending on where you sail. Those made for windsurfing are best for traction and staying on, when beach walking and swimming (nice for parking lot too).
• Gloves to save on blisters and callouses. Usually not an issue for beginners.
Here is a long, but good reading on boards from an old Windsurfing Magazine article.
https://boards.co.uk/equipment-tests/tested-equipment/group-test/soft-tops-freerides-jan-2009.html
Sails:
I believe small sails are easier for a beginner to pick from. I don’t think the style, like wave or free ride, are different enough in the small sizes that the average Joe or Josephine could tell. With that belief, most of my small are free ride style and obtained mainly used through swaps, on line, or through folks bailing on sailing. One style I would not get for a newbie is one with camber inducers. They are not forgiving enough to your mistakes and more difficult to rotate when turning around.
There is one I bought new that I do like. It is upscale in performance and construction than the typical “beginner” sail, so it will useful even after you move up and could use this for a high wind sail later.
There are a few models claiming to be beginner oriented, but to my eye, they are not up to the same level as this: Chinook Power Glide They are designed and made by Ezzy, a top name in the business. They range in size from 3.0 to 7.5, something other beginner sails do not do. If I have to replace something and I buy new, unless I find a great deal on something else, this is what I would get.
Boards:
There are many options for boards without centerboards. Way too many to comment on. For beginners and light wind lake sailors, I recommend having a centerboard. I suggest a board with full EVA deck (softskin easy on the knees and shins). The longer, narrower boards will glide better, being more directionally stable when non-planing, but the short, wide ones reportedly will plane off sooner. Wider is easier to dance around on when learning footwork and balance. Here are some.
JP Funster Sport – in general, longer and narrower than most. For those folks wanting a little sportier feel, they could be better in the long run as your skills improve and you sail stronger winds. From the JP website (not that other boards don’t have these – I noted the features I like):
• Retractable dagger board for stability and easy upwind sailing
• New: Reinforced nose to prevent damages from mast impacts (nice)
• New: Carrying straps on the nose and tail. (nice)
• Full EVA deck with microdot structure for good grip and comfort (nice)
• Multiple footstrap options, from an easy inboard cruising to the sportier position further out on the rail. (nice)
• Intuitive Guide Pad – the colour-coded EVA Pad works as guideline where to position your feet
Good size selection. 145 for the lighter folks or those with loftier goals. 195 for the big guys will be good.
Vol-Liter Length Width
145 270cm 70cm
165 275 75
195 280 82.5
JP Funster – many of the same features as the Sport, but in a wider, shorter format. This line offers even more volume if you really want stability. These are wide boards!
170 260 90
200 270 95
240 282 101
RRD Evolution Y25 – on the narrower side for the sportier ride. Full softskin deck. Their site claims durability good enough for schools.
155 248 76
Starboard Go – Long history of boards for entry level sailors. They pretty much started the wide board theory. Some features claim to offer increased performance for the advancing sailor. I like these widths/sizes as a compromise between the narrower and wider offerings.
165 263 80
175 268 83
195 271 87
Starboard Rio - Claims to have features oriented for true beginners and learning to get on plane faster. I have not sailed a board with these features. Some of the largest offerings for the big folks. Too big for those under 200 # in my opinion.
259 333 86.5 For those maybe 240 # plus?
219 308 81.5
196 295 79 For those 200+?
BIC Techno 293 – been around for a long time, so a time tested design. One of the longer offerings which is good for glide. There might still be a racing class for these. Good volume for the bigger folks, might be a little big for smaller folks. One of the lightest offerings on the list – livelier feel? Highest overall performance potential for a bigger board? No softskin deck.
205 293 79
BIC Techno 160D – Newer offering in a shorter, wider design than the 293. Lightest board on the list - likely due to lack of softskin deck. Good choice for smaller folks prior to getting a “performance” board, then it will be your light wind board. Shorter length will make tracking a little more difficult when not planing.
160 255 82
Fanatic Viper – I have and use a model 80 to teach with as my “smaller” board. It has good progressive footstrap positions. Offers several sizes in the “medium” width range.
240 290 91
220 285 85 For those that have had a lesson with me, this is the size of my bigger, blue board, for reference
190 280 80 This is the actual white board I also use for smaller or more advanced folks.
160 275 75 Maybe a good compromise for bigger folks once past beginner stage.
As a side note, my most used board is a F2 Phoenix 320. It is light for its size (188L x 320 long x 75 wide). For my 210 # and lake sailing where I am on and off plane a lot, I find it a good compromise between performance and energy expended. If you find a used one… There is a 340 version as well, but it is longer and narrower yet, so probably considered a “longboard” by most, and while it could be used, it will be a little trickier to learn on. In general, the old really long, heavy, narrow boards from 30+ years ago should be avoided unless you get it for really cheap or free – but remember, those old ones often need parts that are hard to find. Not recommended.
With the help of some senior instructors, Ian Leonard charts the (new) right board progression to windsurfing competence… In recent years the landscape of windsurfing progression has altered dramatically. So, whether you’re a ‘newbie’ looking for your first board or someone who’s been in t...
