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If you’ve been strength training pre-season, don’t stop. If you haven’t been strength training, don’t start.In season tr...
10/08/2026

If you’ve been strength training pre-season, don’t stop.

If you haven’t been strength training, don’t start.

In season training is all about maintaining what you have, and doing so with the least amount of fatigue.

10/07/2026

Finger capsulitis is usually not fixed by complete rest.

Synovial joints need motion, but they also need the right amount of pressure.

The goal is to reduce irritation while slowly rebuilding tolerance to load.

Step 1: Unload the joint

Start with unloaded flexion and extension.

Tendon glides.
Gentle finger curls.
Pain-free range of motion.

Most useful in the acute stage or after splinting.

The goal is not strength yet. The goal is motion, fluid exchange, and reducing sensitivity.

Step 2: Add low-pressure loading

Once motion is tolerated, add light loading.

Use lower-intensity finger curls.
Use open-hand positions.
Keep force low.
Load and unload slowly.

This adds movement and mechanical input without excessive compression.

Step 3: Progressive isometrics

Start open hand.
Progress to half crimp.
Eventually full crimp.

Grip position changes joint pressure.

Full crimp creates more compression and shear.
Open hand reduces joint pressure, but can increase stress to ligaments and tendons.

Neither position is automatically “safe.”
The dose must match joint tolerance.

Step 4: Return to climbing slowly

Avoid:
Hard crimping.
Dynamic board climbing.
Limit moves.

Then gradually reintroduce:
Open-hand climbing.
Static half-crimp positions.
Submaximal crimp loading.

Hard crimping should come last.

Step 5: Use symptoms as your guide

Loading should feel tolerable and not worse the next day.

If swelling, stiffness, or pain increase, the dose was too high.

Unload.
Reduce pressure.
Build again.

Summary

Unloaded motion circulates joint fluid.
Low-load movement begins rebuilding.
Progressive isometrics restore tolerance.

The goal is not to avoid pressure forever. The goal is to earn it back.

PMID: 36607556
PMID: 32008676
PMID: 18226575

10/05/2026

The reality isn’t sexy and flashy. It’s simpler, practical, and has to be customized to the individual. I hope this helps.

📸

If you’re interested in understanding how to rehabilitate climbers, check out one of my upcoming overseas courses.

🇵🇱 .wspinania
🇮🇹
🇭🇰
🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿
🇮🇪
🇹🇷

c4hp

Background prevalence rates matter for clinical decision making. Too often a scan generates fear and delays a return to ...
10/02/2026

Background prevalence rates matter for clinical decision making. Too often a scan generates fear and delays a return to sport.

For RCRSP, we have a lot of treatments. Dry needling, manual therapy, shockwave, taping, electrolysis, and plenty of com...
10/01/2026

For RCRSP, we have a lot of treatments. Dry needling, manual therapy, shockwave, taping, electrolysis, and plenty of combinations of these.

The problem is that we still don’t have convincing evidence that adding these things consistently improves outcomes beyond exercise alone.

So keep it simple. Load the shoulder, build capacity, progress the exercises, and adjust based on symptoms and patient goals.

More treatment doesn’t mean better treatment.

If you’re interested in learning more about managing climbing injuries check out one of my Upper Extremity Rehab 4 Climbers courses.

Next courses are in 🇵🇱 🇮🇹 🇭🇰 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 🇮🇪 🇹🇷

TRAINING PRINCIPLES 4 CLIMBERS Boulderhane Climbing Gym This two-day clinic, designed for therapists, coaches, and inter...
09/28/2026

TRAINING PRINCIPLES 4 CLIMBERS Boulderhane Climbing Gym

This two-day clinic, designed for therapists, coaches, and interested athletes, teaches strength and conditioning principles explicitly tailored for rock climbers.

The focus is on actionable knowledge 🤘. You’ll learn how to immediately apply these concepts, not just memorize and forget them. With countless training methods available, this course aims to help you understand why some approaches are more effective based on an individual needs analysis.

Comment BETA for ticket info.

Boulderhane Climbing Gym Zafer Altunbezel ТРЕНИРОВКИ🔹СТАМБУЛ 🔹СКОЛИОЗ





09/25/2026



Tension Climbing

An interesting questions in climbing rehabilitation is if the pulleys adapt mechanically like tendons.We know the pulley...
09/23/2026

An interesting questions in climbing rehabilitation is if the pulleys adapt mechanically like tendons.

We know the pulleys are collagen rich connective tissues that deform under load. Xeber Iruretagoiena research has shown that experienced climbers develop thicker pulleys, and asymptomatic elite climbers often demonstrate greater tendon to bone distance on ultrasound.

What those changes actually represent is unclear.

The tendon literature provides an interesting framework. Longer duration loading exposes collagen to greater time dependent deformation (creep) and stress relaxation, while higher intensity loading is more commonly associated with increased tissue stiffness and less deformation under load.

It seems reasonable.

Density Hangs (moderate intensity with longer time under tension) may improve a pulley’s tolerance to sustained mechanical deformation and increase loading capacity during rehab.

As rehabilitation progresses, Recruitment Pulls (high intensity with short duration) may shift the stimulus toward improving stiffness, reducing deformation under high climbing loads while improving force transmission.

Importantly, this is not supported by direct pulley research. It’s a proposed framework based on tendon mechanobiology, the viscoelastic behavior of collagen tissues, and the structural adaptations observed in climbers.

If correct, it provides a logical progression:

Density Hangs → Mixed Loading → Recruitment Pulls

Rather than competing methods, these loading strategies serve different mechanical goals throughout rehabilitation. I’ve used this progression clinically for years with encouraging outcomes, but there’s still a lot to learn. Hopefully this idea sparks discussion and future research.

Xeber Iruretagoiena Volker Schöffl
c4hP

Address

631 West 3900 South Suite B-1
Salt Lake City, UT
84123

Telephone

+18015564900

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