08/25/2026
The dock bridge has been sent to someone to help produce. It will take time so I am attempting to build a prototype with my husband's help.
Goal of This Prototype
- Bridge a typical 1–3 ft dock-to-boat gap
- Clamp solidly to the dock
- Float/articulate at the boat end so it moves with the boat
- Optional temporary arms that hold the boat still during transfer
- Fold or break down for transport
- Light enough for 1–2 people to carry and set up in a few minutes
- Cost target: $80–180 depending on what you already have
**This is for concept testing and video only.** It is **not** safe for actual adaptive athletes until a proper engineered version exists. Always use multiple spotters and start with calm conditions.
Materials List (Low-Fidelity Version)
| Item | Quantity | Notes / Alternatives | Approx. Cost |
|------|----------|----------------------|--------------|
| Exterior plywood or OSB (¾") | 2 sheets or cut pieces totaling ~8 ft long × 20–24" wide | Two 4-ft sections work well | $30–50 |
| Heavy-duty door hinges or gate hinges | 3–4 | Galvanized preferred | $15–25 |
| Large C-clamps or bar clamps | 2 | 6–12" capacity, the bigger the better | $20–40 |
| Pool noodles or closed-cell foam blocks | 2–4 long noodles or equivalent | For buoyancy at the boat end | $10–20 |
| Schedule 40 PVC pipe (1" or 1½") | 10–15 ft | For frame reinforcement and BoatLock arms | $15–25 |
| PVC fittings (T’s, elbows, couplings) | Assorted | For arm joints | $10 |
| Non-slip grip tape or outdoor rubber mat | Enough to cover walking surface | Critical for safety | $15–25 |
| Bolts, nuts, washers, lag screws | Assorted stainless or galvanized | | $10–15 |
| Pipe insulation or extra foam | For padding the BoatLock arms | | $8 |
| Rope, ratchet straps, or cam straps | 2–4 | Extra security | $10–15 |
| Optional: 2Ă—4 lumber | A few pieces | To stiffen the plywood if needed | $10
Tools Needed
- Circular saw or handsaw
- Drill + bits
- Screwdriver / impact driver
- Measuring tape, marker, square
- PVC cutter or hacksaw
- Clamps (for holding pieces while assembling)
- Safety glasses, gloves
Build Steps
**1. Make the main platform**
- Cut two plywood sections, each about 4 ft long × 20–24" wide.
- Place them end-to-end and join with 2–3 strong hinges on the underside so the whole thing folds in the middle.
- Add a simple locking pin or strap so it stays flat when open.
- Cover the top surface with non-slip tape or a rubber mat. Overlap the seam if possible.
**2. Dock-end clamps**
- On the dock end of the platform, mount two large C-clamps (or bar clamps) so the jaws can grip the dock edge or rail.
- Bolt or lag-screw the fixed part of each clamp solidly to the plywood.
- Position them so the platform sits roughly level with the dock surface when clamped.
**3. Articulated floating boat end**
- At the boat end, create a hinged or flexible connection (another set of hinges works).
- Attach two large pool noodles (or foam blocks) underneath or on the sides of this end section so they provide buoyancy and can rest against or slightly under the boat gunwale.
- The goal is that the free end can rise and fall a few inches with the boat while still supporting weight.
- You can reinforce this end with a simple PVC frame if the plywood feels too floppy.
**4. Temporary BoatLock arms (optional but highly recommended for the video)**
- Make two adjustable arms from PVC pipe.
- Cover the contact ends with foam padding (pipe insulation or cut pool noodles).
- Mount them so they can swing or slide out and press against the sides of the dragon boat.
- Use simple straps, pins, or friction to hold them in place once adjusted.
- These arms are what will make the boat feel stable during the transfer demo.
**5. Final reinforcement & test fold**
- Add any extra 2×4 bracing or PVC cross-pieces needed so the platform doesn’t flex excessively under body weight.
- Confirm it folds (or comes apart into two pieces) for transport.
- Add carry handles or rope loops if desired.
Testing & Filming Plan
1. Start on land or a very calm dock with an able-bodied tester and several spotters.
2. Clamp it solidly, engage the arms, and walk across repeatedly while watching for flex, clamp movement, or unexpected gaps.
3. Move to a real dragon boat in calm water. Have spotters hold the boat and the platform.
4. Film from multiple angles: side view showing articulation, overhead showing the bridge, and the actual transfer.
5. Show setup time, folding, and how the floating end moves with the boat.
6. Keep sessions short and conservative. If anything feels sketchy, stop and iterate.
Iteration Tips
- Too much flex? Add more bracing or switch to a stiffer material.
- Floats not supporting enough? Add more noodles or larger foam blocks.
- Clamps slipping? Use bigger clamps or add a secondary strap around the dock.
- Gap too large or small? Make the platform modular (extra extension piece with pins).
This version is deliberately crude.
