02/13/2023
80s and newer derby rules 2023
General Rules: JUST BECAUSE ITS NOT IN THE RULES, DOES NOT MEAN YOU CAN DO IT
1. Cars must be IN LINE FOR TECH BY 11:30!!!!!!!! If not in line by 11:30, you will pay a $25 late fee.
2. Must have valid driver’s license. Parents must sign for underage drivers.
3. Must wear a full-face helmet, jeans, and a fire jacket is recommended.
4. Cars MUST have working brakes upon entering the arena and must have a seatbelt.
5. Factory gas tanks must be removed, batteries must be removed from engine compartment and moved to the passenger seat area of the car.
6. All flammable material, glass, and trim must be removed, we don’t want a mess in the arena afterwards.
7. A $75 entry fee will be submitted to judges prior to inspection. This fee includes ONE pit person. Pit passes are $20. No refunds if you do not pass tech!!
8. You are allowed one fire, if deemed safe by judges you may continue. Second fire, you are disqualified.
9. One-minute contact rule.
10. No hot rodding in the pits. Any questions/concerns must be taken up at the drivers meeting!
11. Absolutely no alcohol consumption in the pits during the derby, you will be asked to leave.
80’s and Newer Class
1 77 and newer GM, 79 and newer Chrysler, 79 and newer FOMOCO cars.
2 No SUVS, hearses, pickups, sedagons, ambulances, limos.
3 Metal boat tanks or well-made fuel cells must be used, must be covered.
4 Exhaust must be removed from under-side of vehicle and may exit through the hood.
5 Batteries and gas tanks must be moved into the passenger seat area of the car, must be covered and mounted securely. No ratchet straps.
6 All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
7 Transmission coolers are allowed, recommended that you cover the lines inside the car.
8 Radiator must be in stock location, no reinforcing of the core support is allowed, no radi-barrels or roof barrels.
9 Any tire will be allowed, must be air filled. 7” centers will be allowed in the rims. No full centers. NO bead protectors. Valve stem protectors ARE allowed.
10 Any stock 5 lug rear end may be used. No bracing allowed. May use a spool or weld to obtain posi traction. Must mount the same as factory for that car. Must use factory control arms with no modifications.
11 Sliders are allowed.
12 Pinion brakes are allowed.
STEERING
1. All steering components must remain stock to that make and model of vehicle. Only modification allowed is a home-made steering column to prevent the loss of steering.
Suspension
1. No altering suspension except where stated. You are allowed 2- 2x4x 1/8” plates per upper a-arm only. One on each side of the a-arm. One 4” side of each plate must be welded to the a-arm. Plates may not be wider than 1” past the widest part of the a-arm.
2. You may use box ford upper a-arms to replace the newer style a-arms on any ford bubble car until 2002. You must use the stock mounts that are welded to the frame of the car. No cutting off and welding old style a-arms mounts to the frame. If you have any questions on how to do this, please call before doing so. All 2003 and newer fords must use ALL of the factory suspension and steering components that came on that car from the factory.
2. May use one chain per hump to go around the rearend and around the frame. May weld one link to the frame rail.
3. No adding leafs, or double coils allowed. No leafing a coil spring car.
Engines
1. Any motor may be used in any car as long it is in stock location. The motor must be rubber mounted only!! No welding lower cradle directly to the frame.
2. Lower Cradles are allowed, may have front plate going to the accessory holes in the heads, no pulley protectors or DPs. No tr**ny braces/protectors/steel tails allowed. May run a steel bell but it can not be used to reinforce the car in any way.
3. Transmission crossmember: must be the factory cross member that came with the car and use the factory mounts, OR you may run a 2x2x1/4 square tube for a cross member. If you have to move the crossmember location, you may use a piece 2x2x1/4 inch angle iron, 4 inches long for a crossmember mount. If you decide to use angle iron, you must remove the factory mount. Crossmember must be mounted like it came from the factory.
CAGE
1. No larger than 6” material may be used, must be 6 inches off of the floor and tunnel.
2. May have a dash bar and a behind the seat bar, may connect them on each side of the vehicle. 62” max door bar length.
3. You are allowed to have one down bar per side to help protect your batteries and feet. This bar must be behind the inside door seam, welded to sheet metal only, and must be vertical. The down bar must be 3x3 square tube or smaller. This bar may not attach to anything other than the floor and the door bar.
4. A halo bar may be used, must be welded to the door bars only, no floor attachment.
5. May have 2 windshield bars and one rear window bar. The front bars may form and “A” or an “H”. They may not extend 3” past the window seam. May not come in contact with the dash bar.
6. You may have a gas tank protector. 24 inches wide, must be 4 inches away from all sheet metal.
FRAME/Bumpers
1. Only Cold-bending of the frame is allowed between the crossmember and the a arms.
2. No extra frame welding, shaping, shortening, pinning, etc allowed. If caught with any frame infractions, you will be LOADED, no refunds. No painted frames.
3. You may cut the front of the frame off flush with the front of the core support body mount. No moving the mount.
4. Any stock car bumper will be allowed. You are allowed to fully seam weld the bumper, and load it. Inserted bumpers are allowed. Manufactured bumpers will be allowed. Max size of 5x5 tubing with a 4-inch point tapered over 32 inches.
5. Factory bumper shocks from the same year, make and model of the car you are running must be used. No extending shocks. You may push shock into frame, weld the shock to the frame, and weld bumper to the shock. You may also weld the bumper shock to outside of the frame rail if you choose to do so. Same rules apply for the rear bumper.
BODY
1. Doors may be changed in six locations per door. The vertical seem between doors counts as one chain for each door, OR you may use two 4x4x1/8” plates per vertical seem. If your car is rusty on the bottom of the doors and is difficult to weld patches, you may use one door patch on top and three chains on the bottom per door. Drivers door may be welded solid.
2. Hoods must have a hole cut for fires, minimum of 12”x12” hole. Hoods may be attached in 4 spots. These 4 spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal except for the core support pins.
3. You may remove the core support body mount and use up to 1” all thread to be welded to the frame to secure the hood. Core support spacer may be made up of 3-inch box tubing or smaller and may not pass through the core support. It may be welded to the frame or the bottom of the core support, not both.
4. If you cut fenders out for tire clearance you may bolt the fender back together with 5- 3/8 bolts with a maximum of a 1-inch diameter washer.
5. Trunks, you may secure in 4 spots with chain or 4x4 plates or 12 3/8 bolts. Lids must be in stock location.
6. All body mounts must remain the same as they were from factory, no removing the metal insert and sucking them down.
7. You may crease fenders and tuck the trunk. You may also canoe the trunk but it must be done cleanly.
Please CALL or TEXT with any questions, concerns. CALL about fixing RUST, or fixing PRE-RAN cars.
4- 4x4x1/8” fix it plates may be used on the frame only. Plates must have a 1-inch gap between the welds on the plates. Must be able to prove it was bent or you will cut plates off.
All questions and concerns must be taken up at the drivers meeting. Austin 701-710-0855