11/02/2025
I hiked into the Grand Canyon! South Kaibab to Tonto to Bright Angel.
Hiking rim-to-rim has been on my bucket list for a long time. Because of the North Rim fires and ongoing trail maintenance, the trails at the bottom of the canyon have been closed, making the river inaccessible. As an alternative, I hiked down South Kaibab, across the Tonto Trail, and up Bright Angel. 13.2 miles and 3500’ gain. Essentially Katahdin in reverse, plus a few extra miles.
I started before dawn in a winter hat. A mile in, a mountain goat passed me on the trail. I reached Ooh Ahh point as the sun was rising over the rim. The sun is so bright during the day that the canyon colors wash out. But at sunrise, they glow.
South Kaibab is a trail of switchbacks, but it’s steep enough that your quads are breaking your body for 4.5 miles straight. As you descend, the temp starts to rise and the layers come off. At the Tip Off, which is where the trail takes a sharp dive toward the river, the Tonto Trail turns to the east. This narrow trail travels across a plateau above the river, 4.6 miles of fully exposed sun and no potable water. It is a desert-like landscape with wide, sweeping views of the canyon. It’s surprisingly lush in places, with a narrow vein of water where trees thrive in the arid landscape.
Tonto connects to Bright Angel Trail at Havasupai Gardens backcountry campground. I visited with a deer eating his breakfast and met a man giving out candy (it was Halloween). From here the trail ascends, switchbacking up 3500 feet. At this time of year the sun is far south, so the trail was almost entirely shaded by the canyon walls. In direct heat, this would be a brutal climb.
For most of the hike, I was alone. Just me walking across this massive canyon, feeling grateful and awestruck. The Grand Canyon is vast in a way that is difficult to comprehend. It doesn’t seem real, even when you’re in it.
I finished the hike in 6.5 hours, drank 3.5 liters of water, ate a lot of candy, and came out covered in dust. I said ‘wow’ more times than I remember.
It was one of the most amazing hikes I’ve ever done.
I can’t wait to come back for the full rim-to-rim.