Giggling rogue productions

Giggling rogue productions Larp traps, locks and boxes at bargain prices!

Don't take Giggling rogue productions ' quiet to mean that we've given up the fight - your humble trap craftsmen have be...
03/06/2020

Don't take Giggling rogue productions ' quiet to mean that we've given up the fight - your humble trap craftsmen have been working on something big! The engineering aspect is taking us some time and effort, though, so while you're waiting, why not stock up on locks, tripwires and trapped boxes before overly cocky rogues overrun your game? Our products are handcrafted with care and shipped straight to you, anywhere in the world that receives mail! You're in suspiciously dextrous hands with Giggling rogue productions !

Well, winter appears to be on it's way out, so the LARP spring season must be right around the corner! Game runners, now...
02/27/2020

Well, winter appears to be on it's way out, so the LARP spring season must be right around the corner! Game runners, now is a good time to evaluate your trap bin - and to order new trapping supplies from Giggling rogue productions , your one-stop shop for trapped boxes, tripwires, LARP locks and other assorted cruel tricks for dear friends! Come check out our selection, handcrafted to frustrate and detonate the LARP rogue in your life!

12/04/2019

It's come to my attention that some rogues out there have lived such deprived lives that they have never seen or had to deal with a trapped box... I wrote this tutorial years ago, and thankfully, the principles involved have not changed substantially. No, I don't think demonstrating how Giggling rogue productions' trapped boxes should be picked is a good idea - but hopefully this will help you understand the basic approach. Enjoy!

How I Do It - Box picking, Crowscar-style.

(yes, this is where the years of experience come in!)

1) Imagine.
If you're reading this, then you either are a LARP rogue or have a vested interest in blowing them up. In either case, it's time to use your imagination for more than enriching your s*x life or lack thereof (unless you're REALLY kinky). It's time to use a LARPer's favorite toy - your imagination.
Imagine that you - not your character, you - are locked in a closet. In this closet with you are six sticks of C4 packed in industrial ball bearings and affixed to a timer, a device perfectly capable of turning you - not your character, YOU - into a fine red mist. The naughty person who has done this horrible thing to you has a fixation with dirty tricks and boobytraps, and is so confident that he's the smarty-pants in this situation that he has provided you with a set of tools with which to poke at his bomb in a vain effort to save your own life. You've never defused a bomb before. You don't even know where to start.

Your move.

No, I'm not trying to scare you. I'm trying to impress on you the mindset and emotional state that you should go into every box-picking situation with - the sensation that you have no idea what you're doing, and that the wrong move will permanently end your life, but you're stuck with doing it. I wish that I could give you a step-by-step set of instructions for making your way through a box. I'd have written one up years ago, just to try to save the art of box picking from it's encroaching extinction. However, this facet of the LARP life is specifically designed to be unpredictable. You can't have a blueprint for it, because every trap, every box, is going to be different. Therefore, to be any good at it at all, you have to start with paranoia and build on that - you can't learn how to do it, so you have to learn how to think about it. And the way to think about it is that you've been thrust into a situation beyond your control, and have to prevail by using your wits or you're dead.

2) "Shall we start like David Copperfield? I am born, I grow up?"
No, we shall start with a little anecdote - the Secret Origin of Crowscar the Wild Elf!
It's all Random's fault. at the tender age of 19, my bestest buddy Random introduced me to the concept of LARP. I was in the car on the way to a module day at camp Nobscott before I knew we wouldn't be tabletopping, and it was in that beaten up POS that I had the concept of LARPing explained to me. I learned that the one thing the team needed was a rogue, and being easy, I agreed to play that position. Having played thieves in D+D before, I figured that it would be much the same thing, because I still wasn't quite scanning the whole 'you actually have to physically do it' concept. I had no tools. I had no clue. And away we go!
So no s**t, there I was - Lori Turey was marshalling us through my first ever LARP module, Ped Xing. I'd just been through my first fight, in which I learned that the key to good parrying is adrenaline. And here's a door. And there's a lock on it, a Master 55 padlock.
"A lock. Can I pick it?"
Lori: "I don't know, can you?"
"I don't have any tools."
Lori: (sigh, eye roll) "Here. I need it back after the mod."
I stuck the pick in the lock, gave it a wiggle and a twist, and the lock popped open. Lori's eyes about bugged out of her skull.
"Well. I guess I can."
Yes, I won't lie - part of it was natural aptitude, a predisposition to being underhanded and disreputable. Part of it was having 4 other people staring at the back of my head, waiting for me to do the part they'd brought me along for. But the biggest part was that feeling - 'I don't know how I got myself into this ridiculous situation, but it's my responsibility as the team's official crash test dummy to do it, because I'm the only one who can.' It was much the same when we finally reached Ped Xing - There was a very sensitive sound-activated trap in the outer room. I had to sneak completely silently through a decrepit camp cabin without making the floor squeak in order to make it to the module objective. Lori had had to walk through the cabin to prep the NPC playing Ped Xing, and she'd set the trap off even though she'd done her best not to. But not me. I managed it, because that was my job, the position I played. Because I was a rogue.
Now, as some of you know, I grew up in Brooklyn, NY, in the ugly end that you see in movies. I've carried a knife within easy reach at all times since I was 8 years old. That's the only reason that I had any kind of tool on hand when I reached my first box. I also hadn't had the concept of 'if you die, you go to the healer's guild, they slap your wrist and you come back out' explained to me. I figured if the thing blew me up I'd be writing a new character. That cold sweat is the proper way to go about picking any trap because it engenders an almost autistic fixation on what you're doing, which is what will save your life. Think about the bomb in the locked closet scenario - You've got to do this, and you've got to do it by making absolutely no mistakes. Your life is on the line. Therefore you're going to want to know Every Single Detail, no matter how minute. Any detail in this situation could be the key to your survival.

3) In which we prove that I lie.
So, now that I've impressed upon you that I can't give you a step-by-step on how to pick a box, here are the steps that I follow in picking a box. This should not leave you with the impression that I intentionally lied to you (although I did), but rather that the steps that I provide you with are an infinitesimal fraction of the process. The true key to my being good at what I do is now and has always been that paranoia, that expectation that the next box that blows up in my face will be the last thing I ever see. It's a lot like character acting - live the part, be your character. Know the fear of being blown to tiny bits by some sadistic pinhead with a fe**sh for tripwires. Think about the pain of being inches from a sizable explosive charge when it detonates. Then say 'to hell with said sadistic pinhead' and do it anyway, because that's your job. your team is counting on you. This, of all places, all endeavors in the LARP world, is your chance to shine. Do it right, and the team will be congratulating you outside the cabin. Do it wrong, and they''ll be consoling you outside the resurrection point.

Picking the box starts with the module hook - the minute you step into a potential combat situation, having to deal with antipersonnel devices becomes a possibility. From that moment on you become the team scout. You should be point man (or woman) in this situation, checking every square foot your team will have to cover for traps. You should inspect every door before it is opened, should be first person into every room, especially dark rooms. If you find bad guys, then it becomes the thugs' problem, but in the meantime, if anyone gets blown up, it's because you missed something or because they did something stupid and pushed past you.
Once you see a box, freeze. Tell your teammates that there's a box over there, and not to approach it. It's fairly common to trap the area surrounding a box, because rogues start salivating at the sight of one, and might be so eminently foolish as to bull straight at it, setting off any traps that might be in it's vicinity. Make sure that your teammates are not in any immediate danger, give them a safe area in which to mill anxiously while they wait for you to blow yourself up, and once you are fairly sure that you have the necessary time and space in which to safely search the box, THEN approach it. Carefully. Checking for traps as you go. Like I said, build on that paranoia - mere fear just isn't enough. If you're ONLY afraid, you're not taking the situation seriously.
At this point, you should do a thorough examination of the box's surroundings - especially the table, shelf, chair or piece of floor that it's on. If that's trapped and you miss it, you may never see the inside of the box. You'll be too busy being all blowed up. Remember, stray bits of information can tell you what you're dealing with - a pinch of sawdust or the scent of cordite could indicate the presence of poppers. A scrap of wax paper could indicate that mounting tape has been used for some reason. A squiggle carelessly scratched in the dust could point out the use of thread or string for tripwires. A smudge of petroleum jelly is a dead giveaway for the use of contact poison. Use your senses, that's why they're there.
Congratulations, you've reached the airspace around the box. Now for the hard part. Shut out everything else - the NPCs undoubtedly waiting to fillet you outside, your team, the cold/heat/rain/meteor shower/burning hail/rain of frogs/what have you, how much your feet hurt, everything. The only things that exist are you and the box. And since you theoretically know your own vital statistics fairly well, you can devote all your attention to the box. Without touching it or, indeed, any other surface, examine the box as thoroughly as possible, from every side and angle available to you. There's always the possibility that there will be some external indication of what you're facing, like a bore-hole to give access to a kill switch. Scratches at a specific point on the lip of a box could indicate the regular passage of a metal tool, giving you an idea of where you should be looking. One of my favorite tricks is to shine my light through the crack at the back of the box lid while pressing my eyes to the crack at the front, to see if there are any obstructions that could give me a clue as to the triggering mechanism. Remember, your best tools are your senses and your wits. You've got to use them or your going to wind up in bite-sized chunks. Pay special attention to the way the bottom of the box meets the surface it's on - there could be a pressure switch under it. Also take a close look at the hasp on a box that has one, there could be a pressure switch under it or a wire attached to it's back. If you assume that the thing's only going to go off when you open the lid, you've already lost.
This is where it becomes important to pre-plan everything that you do, and do it very slowly and carefully. You should be watching even more vigilantly for the unexpected at this point, because that's how the trap setter can get the better of you most effectively - by hitting you with something you didn't see coming. For instance, when I'm opening a box with a hasp, I put pressure on the top of the lid to make sure no internal pressure (such as from a sprung mousetrap pressing against the inside of the lid) will pop the lid open. I could have seen the inside of the box as clear as day, and know exactly what's inside, but I'd still hold the lid closed - because once you assume that you know what you're dealing with, you've invited the setter to blow you up. You've made an assumption. An assumption that will get you dead.
Unfortunately, this is where the concept of a step-by-step breaks down. I have no way of knowing what will be inside that box, any more than you do. From here, it's pure inspiration on your part - seeing what there is to see and coming up with a game plan to keep it from detonating in your face. The 'tips for trap pickers' piece I did for [redacted] site has a listing of the tools I use, and that should provide you with something for just about every occasion. The one thing I will tell you is what some of you have been doing wrong with my buzzer-boxes. (a tip on Just One Type of trap can't be too imbalancing, can it?)

As faithful trap pickers, you are going to see a lot of Radio Shack merch, especially the lever switch, the switch I generally use on my buzzer boxes. If you use the 'shining the light through the crack and looking through' trick, you should be able to see the switch fairly clearly, if only as a paper-thin silhouette directly on the other side of the lip of the box. the thing about a lever switch is that it has only about 2-3 millimeters of give before it opens, and you go boom (or buzz, as the case may be.) That means you have about 2 millimeters maximum to work with, probably less. This is why one of the items in my kit is a credit card. Use something suitably thin to press the lever down while you open the box. A playing card should do it - a lever switch's spring isn't that strong. It really is about that easy...you just have to use a bit of finesse, a bit of forethought, and a bit of dexterity.

I hope this helps those of you who have been having difficulty with trapped boxes to find them more exhilarating and less frustrating. As I've said before, there's really no other rush quite like it - cheating ugly death by just being that damn good. I love it so much that I've spent 29 years building trapped boxes, largely so that I could practice picking them and improve my own skills. I heartily suggest that, by the way - build your own box and practice with it. Trade them with your friends. When you've got one beat, build a harder one, and so on. Just remember the rules - If you yourself can't pick your box within the space of 60 seconds, it's not fair to use it on other people. Surpass me. I could use the vacation.

With Black Friday and Cyber Monday coming up, why not buy your favorite rogue one of our handmade trapped boxes? How bet...
11/28/2019

With Black Friday and Cyber Monday coming up, why not buy your favorite rogue one of our handmade trapped boxes? How better to celebrate the holiday season than by helping your rogue of choice hone their skills with some boxes or locks to practice on? Check out our selection!

10/31/2019

A happy Samhain to all, and to all a new installment in Uncle Crowscar's 'how to trap' series! Enjoy!
..Aaaand it's time for Crowscar's Guide to String Mazes! Or, makin' 'em crawl.

1) Hope you haven't got any plans...
...Because setting up a string maze is a pain. It takes forever, because it's very detail oriented. You have to balance it very carefully, and that takes serious attention to detail. You see, if the mesh is too loosely strung your mark will be able to walk through it with a minimum of fuss (and we wouldn't want that, now would we?) and if it's too tight it'll just be a frustrating, impassable mess. To find that balance you need a somewhat artistic eye - you need to be able to look at the empty space you leave and chart a passage through it that your marks will be able to follow (with a little difficulty and a little healing). Remember to take into account your marks' body mass - someone large is going to naturally have more difficulty, no matter how limber they are - also work at developing an understanding of the line between challenging and frustrating, because halfway through a string maze is no place for your mark to get fed up. However if you have done your job properly, your mark will have great fun with with a string maze - it's got a truly roguey feel to it. It's as close to that 'robbing-the-museum-through-the-maze-of-laser-beams' scene that everyone's seen as most of us are ever likely to get, and making your way through one skillfully (and alive, of course) generally leaves you with a great feeling of accomplishment.

2) Let's get on with it.
What you'll need, and why -
a) Thumbtacks (for fixing your line to various points in the room.)

b) little jingle bells - once upon a time, I didn't need to put bells on the lines to indicate when it had been disturbed. Of course, at that time I was working with rogues who looked at every rogueing challenge as an opportunity to test themselves (read: masochists.) I work with saner people now, for better or worse, so it has become necessary to provide a more sure cue to take damage from.

c) some form of line - When deciding what form of line to use, there are a few things to take into account. As I assume that you'll be using bells, you'll want to use something fairly thin. I've tried doing this with donated yarn, and I'll never try it again - it's just too damned thick to work with. Half of the time for setup was getting the damned bells onto the damned yarn. What you'll want to use is either fishing line or kitchen twine - either is thin enough and strong enough to use for this purpose, with white kitchen twine standing out a bit better in the dark (if you want to give your marks a bit better odds.) Fond as I am of stringing black carpet thread around a trap room, it's just too delicate for this application - it's prone to snap when pulled taut.

d) some means of indicating effect - at Endgame, we used a yellow triangle. At Saranwaithe, we had a marshal in the room to announce trap effects. However you go about it, without some indication of what's happening your strings and bells are just strings and bells. Make your effects clear or all your going to get is a cramp in your hands and a lot of jingling. Remember to include in your spiel that the lines cannot be cut, or this will get real pointless real fast.

3) Setup.
Prepare your line by stringing all your bells onto it, leaving them loose so you can slide them along your line. Tie a knot around a tack pin with the free end of your line. It's all downhill from here - all inspiration and perspiration. You stick the tack in the wall and start running the line back and forth between opposing walls or other structures your mark will have to pass between. The more taut your line is, the easier the bell will jingle, so you can mitigate the difficulty somewhat by providing a few more ounces of slack.

You'll want to loop a bit of line around the bell to loop it in place, or gravity will drag it to the lowest point in the line, generally where the line is tacked to a surface. When the bell is butting up against something, it won't jingle as freely if at all. In fact, the closer it is to the center of that length of your line, the more freely it'll jingle because that's where you get the most play in a plucked line.

Back and forth with your line, knotting your line around every tack so it doesn't pull itself loose. Back and forth, ad nauseam. Loop a bell into every length of line. Try not to get caught in a pattern - your mark will figure it out and it'll get that much easier for them, and after all this work, who wants that? Just be sure that it can be navigated somehow - you're not trying to keep them out, you're trying to slow them down. You're trying to make them feel like a rogue, sneaky and crazy and a stone cold pro.

And that's the infamous string maze, in it's bare bones. Do it right and your mark will have loads of fun shinnying through it like a real live rogue. Just remember to leave yourself plenty of time for setup - it's more effort intensive per square foot than just about any other room-trapping scheme. And remember to have fun with it! That's why we come here, right?

10/23/2019

Another post in the 'how to trap' series! Take it, use it, detonate your friends for fun and profit!

Uncle Crowscar's first golden book of antipersonnel devices
or a new trapper's illustrated primer
"I don't know if you know what this is, but when I take my thumb off this, it will explode that. And if you knew how much work it took for me to create this, then you might know how excited I am at the possibility that I might be able to use it." Garrett Lawton, Hollow Point
Hiya hiya hiya kids, it's your uncle Crowscar with a few tips on detonating bad guys for fun and profit! First, we're going to look at the oldest and easiest door trap I know, the rigged mousetrap. Now before you get bent out of shape about me foisting something 'old and easy' off on you, keep in mind that the old tricks get old because they're both reliable and effective - they've proven themselves again and again in the field. You'll need:
⦁ a locking-spring-bar-and-lever type mousetrap with a wooden base
⦁ a drill or, in a pinch, a miniature stapler
⦁ some dark colored carpet thread or fishing line
⦁ some mounting tape
⦁ a thumbtack or pushpin.
Drill a hole in the wooden base of the mousetrap, directly under the end of the triggering lever farthest from the center spring. The hole should be wide enough to get your thread or fishing line through, but not so large that it'll weaken the integrity of the wood. If you don't have a drill, a staple in the same place with enough space to thread your line under it should work just as well. The idea is to get any pressure on the line to pull the trigger lever directly down.
Thread your line through the hole or staple and tie it to the end of the lever.
Using your mounting tape, stick the mousetrap to the doorjamb or wall with the end with the hole or staple in it facing the door. Make sure that there is enough clearance between the trap and the wall for your line to move smoothly, and that the line doesn't get stuck to the tape.
Run out some line to the door, tie that end around the pin part of the tack and tack it to the door, leaving enough slack to set the mousetrap. Once the trap is set, opening the door will cause tension on your line, setting off the trap and causing your victim damage. Easy-peasy, fun for the whole family and a great icebreaker at parties.

Just remember the basics of using a mousetrap - like it's disadvantages:

A) most mousetraps are light colored. They tend to show up nicely against dark backgrounds, so you have to be more subtle when planting them. I have several that I went over with a black magic marker (I was afraid that spray painting them would warp the wood,) so as to not show up when the mark casually glances around the room. Better yet is to place it on the other side of an object that obstructs the mark's line of sight, of course, but that's not always available.

B) Mousetraps come in a variety of qualities. I'm not saying that I've spent months looking for a nice New Jersey '05 with a piquant and nutty finish, but I have learned (the hard way, natch) that you want to take a good look at the device you're planning to use before you buy it. The cheapo Chinese jobbies you can pick up in your corner dollar store are probably going to fly to pieces the first time it snaps closed and there isn't a nice juicy mouse neck or unguarded finger in it. Which brings us to

C) there's a lot of pent-up energy in a mousetrap. As a setter, it's your responsibility to assure that your mark doesn't get hurt trying to pick one of the little beasts. That's one of the reasons we NEVER NEVER NEVER use rat traps for any of the things we'd generally use a mousetrap for. Those springs have a lot more strength in them than a mousetrap does. They're fully capable of breaking a finger/thumb/nose/s*xual organ. I've considered using them as a power-source for a swinging blade type mechanical trap, (my weak spot, I'll admit) but aside from that, no rat traps. Naughty trapper. No booms for you.

D) As traps go, a mousetrap is fairly large. Aside from the large footprint of it's base, it also needs about 3" of unobstructed swing space for the arm to snap closed. Any unanchored small objects on top of the arm (like, say, a coin or potion rep or the odd picker's tool) have the possibility of becoming high-speed projectiles of quick and easy eye removal.

But don't let these things disturb you. Mousetraps are still some of the most useful tools in the trapper's arsenal, and fully worth stocking any time you trap a room. The vast majority of your uncle's trappin' bag 'o' fun is mousetraps, mounting tape, tacks and black carpet thread, which is all you really need to turn an innocent-looking room into a terrifying labyrinth of tripwires and aggravation. Moo hoo ha ha. On that note, a few tips on laying tripwires:

a) try to lay your tripwires with the lines of the surrounding wood. The brain is an essentially lazy organ. If the eye runs over another line running perfectly parallel to all the other lines around it (like the lines between boards) it'll be less likely to point it out in a casual sweep, and all you generally need is for the mark to miss it once...

b) Don't use fishing line. Even matte finish line is far more noticeable than black thread, and a mousetrap is sensitive enough that you don't need the extra pull to snap ratio that the fishing line would give you.

c) Don't take the 'trip' part of the word 'tripwire' too seriously. You don't have to limit yourself to putting tripwires at ankle height - it's going to sting just as much (maybe more) at, say, chest height, and chances are your mark won't be looking for it.

d) There is, indeed, an easier way than trying to tie black thread firmly around the pin of a tack in a darkened, 35-degree room with cold-numbed fingers while your marshal stands over your shoulder saying 'hurry up, this module was supposed to start 45 minutes ago'. Use a bit of tape - any kind, really - to wind a couple extra inches of thread around and tack that to the wall instead. Quick and easy, which is a definite consideration in trapping. The room trapping process takes long enough as it is without disdaining what shortcuts you can take.

And now the moment we've all been waiting for, a few dirty tricks to liven up (or deaden up, as it were) your mark's day >:)

Leggo - Affix the loose end coming from your mousetrap to any object that your mark is likely to pick up, pull on, move aside. It doesn't have to be a tripwire to blow your mark up, you just need one little tug. That's why I'm always looking for flat surfaces with holes through them to thread my line through - just tape the line to the bottom of a box. If your mark moves the box, boom. I still carry a needle to run thread through small holes (or for affixing thread to cloth or carpet).

Counterweight - Instead of tacking the other end of your thread to the wall, hang a mousetrap from the end of it and run the thread over the pin of a tack sticking partway out of the wall, a couple feet off of a hard surface. When your mark cuts the thread (or snaps it by walking through it) the other mousetrap will freefall a couple feet and go off on impact.

B***y prize - hollow out the bottom of a fairly heavy object, like a large book (you'll need about an inch of clearance). Mounting-tape your mousetrap to the bottom inside of it, with the arm facing down, out of your hollowed-out space. Pull the arm back, but don't put the locking bar across it - just set it down on top of an important document that your mark will want. When they pick it up to move it, boom.

That's just a few of the applications that you can use a mousetrap for. Remember, the most important tool in your arsenal is your brain. On that note, PLEASE come up with other uses for the humble mousetrap. Then post them here. The industry will thank you - even if your mark won't >:).

10/17/2019

I've written several short tutorials on various aspects of trapping, trap-picking and assorted roguery subjects, and I can't think of a better place for them than this page. Here's hoping they provide some inspiration for detonating the rogues in your organization of choice!

Hiya hiya hiya all you little maniacs out there in GRP-land! This is your uncle Crowscar saying that it's high time you benefited from my considerable experience in the ancient and highly questionable art of boom-fu. And even if it isn't, I'm gonna do it anyway so listen up you little $ #!ts, because the words even now passing before your sweaty little eyeballs are

Uncle Crowscar's cruel tricks for dear friends

~or~

how to win popularity by maintaining an impressive
body count without actually being in the same room

We'll start from the ground up, with simplicity itself - the party popper. Cheap and easy to use, it's the staple of many a trapper's kit. The party popper has three drawbacks, though -

A) it can be a little difficult to find in a pinch. Around the 4th of July, you'll find them all over the damn place - it's a good time to stock up - but the rest of the year, you're stuck driving around to every cheap local p***y you know, desperately hoping you'll find a display box of them on the counter. There are a couple of answers here - in states where such things are legal (Like, say, NH) fireworks shops tend to carry them as impulse-buy items. Aside from that, you can find pretty near anything on the internet, although you might get stuck buying a gross of boxes.

B) it's expendable. Once it's used, it's used and has to be replanted from your slowly dwindling supply. Good thing they're cheap as dirt

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