What are the opening hours?

Tuesday 9am - 2pm Wednesday 9am - 1pm Thursday 9am - 1pm Friday 9am - 1pm

S & S Pools, 3830 Augusta Highway Suite A, Gilbert, SC (2026)

10/09/2026

IMPORTANT NOTICE FROM S&S POOLS 🚨

INCLEMENT WEATHER & POOL OWNER RESPONSIBILITIES

With the potential for heavy rainfall and severe weather, S&S Pools would like to remind all swimming pool owners of the importance of properly monitoring and maintaining their pool’s sump line or well point system.

Heavy rainfall can cause groundwater levels to rise significantly around and beneath swimming pools. When groundwater is not properly monitored and managed, excessive hydrostatic pressure can develop, potentially resulting in serious structural damage.

⚠️ IMPORTANT HOMEOWNER RESPONSIBILITIES:

✅ Monitor your sump line or well point regularly, especially before, during, and after periods of heavy rainfall.

✅ Check for excessive groundwater accumulation around and beneath your swimming pool.

✅ Remove excess groundwater when necessary, following the proper procedures and manufacturer’s recommendations.

✅ Maintain the appropriate water level inside your swimming pool. Never drain or significantly lower your pool when groundwater levels are elevated without professional guidance.

✅ Ensure drainage systems remain clear and operational to help prevent excessive groundwater buildup.

⚠️ FAILURE TO MONITOR GROUNDWATER CAN RESULT IN:

* Bulging or deformation of fiberglass pool walls and floors.
* Movement or shifting of the swimming pool shell.
* Damage to surrounding decking and structures.
* In extreme cases, lifting or displacement of the entire swimming pool.

PLEASE UNDERSTAND:

A sump line or well point is installed to provide a means of monitoring and managing groundwater conditions surrounding your swimming pool.

The ongoing inspection, monitoring, and proper use of this system are the responsibility of the swimming pool owner.

S&S Pools strongly encourages every homeowner to familiarize themselves with their sump line or well point and understand its importance in protecting their investment.

Groundwater-related damage resulting from improper monitoring or maintenance may not be covered under applicable manufacturer or installation warranties. Homeowners should review their specific warranty terms.

PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT!

Owning a swimming pool comes with ongoing maintenance responsibilities that extend beyond water chemistry and routine cleaning. Groundwater management is a critical part of protecting the structural integrity of your swimming pool.

S&S POOLS
Quality Construction • Customer Education • Protecting Your Investment

Remember: Preventative maintenance today can help prevent costly damage tomorrow.

10/07/2026

💦 WEEK 4 POOL LESSON: CHLORINES💦 💦

We’ve talked about Calcium Hardness, Total Alkalinity, and pH — now it’s time for Week 4: CHLORINES🧪

🏊 What is Free Chlorine?

Free Chlorine (FC) is the chlorine in your pool water that is available and ready to sanitize.

Think of it as your pool’s active defense system! 🛡️

Free chlorine helps:
• Kill bacteria and germs
• Control algae
• Keep your water clean and sanitary
• Protect swimmers from contaminants

🧪 Free Chlorine vs. Total Chlorine

Free Chlorine = chlorine available to sanitize
Combined Chlorine = chlorine that has reacted with contaminants
Total Chlorine = Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorine

👉 Ideally, your Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine readings should be the same or very close.

If Total Chlorine is higher than Free Chlorine, you may have combined chlorine (chloramines) in the water.

☀️ What Causes Free Chlorine to Drop?

• Sunlight/UV exposure
• Heavy swimmer use
• Rain and storms
• Leaves and organic debris
• Algae or bacteria
• Improper water balance

⚠️ What Happens When Free Chlorine is Too Low?

❌ Algae can begin growing
❌ Water may become cloudy
❌ Bacteria can multiply
❌ The pool may develop an unpleasant odor
❌ Water may become unsafe for swimming

💡 POOL OWNER TIP

A strong “chlorine smell” doesn’t necessarily mean there is too much free chlorine. That smell can be associated with chloramines, which form when chlorine reacts with contaminants.

Test your water — don’t guess! 🧪

But where does free chlorine come from? Two common methods are salt chlorine generators and chlorine tablets.

🧂 SALT SYSTEMS

A saltwater pool is still a chlorine pool!

A salt chlorine generator uses electricity to convert chloride from dissolved salt into chlorine. That chlorine creates the free chlorine that sanitizes the pool.

✅ Produces chlorine automatically while the system is operating
✅ Provides a more continuous source of chlorine
✅ Reduces the need to routinely add chlorine tablets
⚠️ You still need to test and maintain the proper free chlorine level
⚠️ Salt cells require inspection and periodic cleaning when scale develops

💊 CHLORINE TABLETS

Chlorine tablets dissolve gradually and release chlorine into the water.

Most residential tablets are trichlor, which also contain cyanuric acid (stabilizer).

✅ Convenient and slow-dissolving
✅ Easy way to provide chlorine
⚠️ Regular tablet use can gradually increase CYA/stabilizer
⚠️ Trichlor is acidic and can contribute to lower pH and total alkalinity
⚠️ High CYA can make it necessary to maintain a higher free-chlorine level for effective sanitation

🧪 THE IMPORTANT PART

Whether your chlorine comes from a salt system or tablets, FREE CHLORINE is what does the sanitizing.

The pool doesn’t care how the chlorine got there — what matters is maintaining an appropriate Free Chlorine level for your pool’s CYA level and keeping the rest of your water chemistry balanced. WEEK 5 we will go over CYA!

💡 S&S POOLS TIP:
Don’t assume a salt pool has enough chlorine just because the salt system is running. Test your Free Chlorine regularly!

🧂 Salt System → Generates Chlorine → Free Chlorine
💊 Tablets → Release Chlorine → Free Chlorine

Different delivery methods. Same goal: clean, properly sanitized pool water! 💦

Maintaining the proper Free Chlorine level along with balanced pH and alkalinity helps your sanitizer do its job.

Salt chlorine generators reduce or stop chlorine production when the water gets too cold, but the exact cutoff depends on the manufacturer/model.

For many residential systems, the cutoff is roughly 50–60°F.

💦 Balanced water = Clear water + Protected equipment + Happier swimmers!

We hear Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine all the time — but what’s the difference? 🧪

Review on 🟢 FREE CHLORINE

Free Chlorine (FC) is the chlorine that is still available and ready to sanitize your pool.

It helps fight:
• Bacteria 🦠
• Algae 🌿
• Germs
• Swimmer contaminants

Whether your pool uses a salt system or chlorine tablets, the goal is the same: maintain enough Free Chlorine to properly sanitize the water.

🔵 TOTAL CHLORINE

Total Chlorine (TC) measures ALL of the chlorine in the water.

The simple formula is:

TOTAL CHLORINE = FREE CHLORINE + COMBINED CHLORINE

🟡 WHAT IS COMBINED CHLORINE?

Combined Chlorine is chlorine that has already reacted with contaminants in the water, forming compounds called chloramines.

You can calculate it:

Total Chlorine − Free Chlorine = Combined Chlorine

Example:

Free Chlorine = 3 ppm
Total Chlorine = 3 ppm

3 − 3 = 0 ppm Combined Chlorine ✅

That’s what we like to see!

But if:

Free Chlorine = 2 ppm
Total Chlorine = 3 ppm

3 − 2 = 1 ppm Combined Chlorine ⚠️

That tells us some chlorine has combined with contaminants and the pool may need attention.

👃 “BUT MY POOL SMELLS LIKE CHLORINE!”

A strong chlorine odor doesn’t necessarily mean there’s too much Free Chlorine.

That familiar “chlorine smell” can actually be associated with chloramines.

💡 S&S POOLS TIP

Don’t look at Total Chlorine alone!

👉 FREE CHLORINE is the number that tells you how much chlorine is available to sanitize.

Ideally, Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine should be the same or very close.

For a typical residential pool:

* Free Chlorine (FC): 1–4 ppm is a commonly recommended range.
* Total Chlorine (TC): Ideally, it should be the same as or very close to Free Chlorine.
Combined Chlorine (CC): Ideally 0 ppm; generally you want it below 0.5 ppm.

🧪 Test it. Balance it. Enjoy it.

🧪 Next week we’ll discuss CYA (Cyanuric Acid), also known as stabilizer — and why we like to call it “chlorine’s sunscreen.” ☀️

We’ll cover what CYA does, why your chlorine needs it and what happens when it gets too high or too low.

10/06/2026

🎃👻 SPOOKY GOOD OCTOBER DEAL! 👻🎃

No tricks — just treats from S&S Pools! 💦

For the entire month of October, purchase a pool package and we’ll include your pool maintenance equipment:

🧹 Pool Pole
🍂 Skim Net
🍁 Deep Rake Net
🫧 Pool Brush
💦 Manual Vacuum
〰️ Vacuum Hose

Everything you need to help keep your new pool looking clean and beautiful — included with your pool package!

👻 Don’t let this Spooky Deal disappear!
Offer available on qualifying pool packages purchased during the month of October.

🎃 S&S Pools — Making backyard dreams come true! 💦

09/30/2026

💦 WEEK 3 POOL LESSON: pH 💦

This week we’re talking about one of the most important parts of balanced pool water — pH!

pH tells you how acidic or basic (alkaline) a liquid is.

The pH scale usually runs from 0 to 14:

* pH < 7 → acidic, like lemon juice
* pH = 7 → neutral, like pure water
* pH > 7 → basic/alkaline, like soapy water

In chemistry, pH is related to the concentration (more precisely, activity) of hydrogen ions, H⁺. A lower pH means greater acidity.

🏊‍♂️ pH in Pool Water

pH is one of the most important measurements in pool water. It tells you whether your pool water is too acidic or too alkaline and directly affects swimmer comfort, chlorine effectiveness, and your pool equipment.

Ideal pool pH: 7.2–7.6
A common target is 7.4, which is close to the natural pH of your eyes.

Keeping pool pH in the proper range can help reduce eye burning and irritation.

For most pools, the recommended pH range is 7.2–7.6, with around 7.4 being close to the natural pH of the human eye.

However, eye burning isn’t caused by pH alone. Chlorine level, chloramines, and overall water balance can also contribute.

🏊‍♂️ Simple S&S Pools explanation:

“Proper pH isn’t just about protecting your pool—it helps protect your swimmers’ eyes and skin, too.”

If pH is too low

⬇️ Below 7.2

* Water becomes acidic
* Can irritate eyes and skin
* May corrode metal components and equipment
* Can damage some pool surfaces
* Chlorine can become overly aggressive

If pH is too high

⬆️ Above 7.6

* Chlorine becomes less effective
* Water can become cloudy
* Calcium scale can form
* Swimmers may experience eye/skin irritation

🧪 How alkalinity fits in

Think of total alkalinity as the “father” and pH as the “son.”

Alkalinity helps buffer and stabilize pH. If alkalinity isn’t in the proper range, your pH can constantly drift up or down.

For most pools, total alkalinity is generally maintained around 80–120 ppm, although the ideal range can vary somewhat by pool type and chemistry system.

🏊‍♂️ POOL CHEMISTRY LESSON: HOW TO RAISE pH IN YOUR POOL WATER! 🧪

This week, we’re talking about how to safely raise your pool’s pH when it tests below the recommended range.

✅ BEFORE ADDING pH INCREASER
• DO test your pool water first.
• DO confirm that the pH is below 7.2–7.6.
• DO check your total alkalinity, since it helps stabilize pH.
• DO read and follow the product label carefully.
• DO calculate the correct amount based on your pool size and test results.

For pool water:

* To raise pH: use pH increaser, usually sodium carbonate (soda ash).
* To lower pH: use pH decreaser, usually sodium bisulfate (dry acid). Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) can also lower pH.
* Using strictly baking soda can cause a bouncing up and down of your ph so make sure to visit your pool care professional.

S&S Pools on muriatic acid! Here at S&S Pools, we don’t like to the use of muriatic acid.

⚠️ Safety: Muriatic acid is highly corrosive. Never mix it with chlorine or other pool chemicals, and follow the product label for handling, storage, dosage, and application.

We do not recommend pouring muriatic acid in a fiberglass pool. Sodium Bisulfate is a safer way of bringing pH down.

Sodium bisulfate is a dry acid commonly used in swimming pools to lower pH and, with sufficient dosing, lower total alkalinity.

🏊‍♂️ Sodium Bisulfate — Pool Uses

* 🔽 Lowers pH when the pH is too high.
* 🔽 Can lower total alkalinity when TA is too high.
🧂 It’s often sold as “pH Down,” “pH Reducer,” or “dry acid.”

Typical target: 7.2–7.6.

One important distinction: soda ash raises pH significantly, while sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is primarily used to raise total alkalinity and has much less effect on pH.

✅ HOW TO ADD pH INCREASER
• Turn on the pool pump and allow the water to circulate.
• Measure the recommended amount of pH increaser.
• Add the product according to the label directions.
• Add the chemical carefully to avoid splashing.
• Allow the water to circulate for the recommended amount of time.
• Retest the water before adding more product.

❌ pH INCREASER DON’TS
• DON’T add pH increaser without testing first.
• DON’T guess at the dosage.
• DON’T add more than the product label recommends.
• DON’T mix pH increaser with other pool chemicals.
• DON’T add chemicals directly on top of one another.
• DON’T swim until the product has fully dissolved and the water has been retested according to the label directions.
• DON’T forget to wear appropriate protective equipment and store chemicals safely.

💡 Remember:
The ideal pool pH range is generally 7.2–7.6. Add pH increaser gradually, allow the water to circulate, and always retest before making another adjustment.

🏊‍♂️ POOL CHEMISTRY LESSON: pH DO’S & DON’TS! 🧪

This week, we’re talking about pH — one of the most important parts of keeping your pool water balanced!

✅ pH DO’S
• DO test your pH regularly.
• DO keep your pH around 7.2–7.6.
• DO check alkalinity when your pH is difficult to maintain.
• DO make adjustments gradually and retest.
• DO follow the product label when adding chemicals.
• DO keep your pump circulating when adding chemicals, according to the product directions.
• DO keep an eye on your water clarity, swimmer comfort, and pool equipment.

❌ pH DON’TS
• DON’T let your pH stay too low for extended periods.
• DON’T let your pH stay too high for extended periods.
• DON’T add chemicals without testing first.
• DON’T guess at chemical amounts.
• DON’T mix pool chemicals together.
• DON’T pour different chemicals into the same container.
• DON’T forget that alkalinity helps stabilize pH.

💡 Remember:
Alkalinity is the father, pH is the son.
Keep your alkalinity balanced and your pH will be much easier to control!

🏊‍♂️ S&S Pools — helping you understand your pool, one chemical at a time!

09/25/2026

The office will be closed today, September 25th. We do apologize for the inconvenience.

09/23/2026

💧 Week 2:
Pool Chemistry Lesson: Total Alkalinity

🏊‍♀️ Why Total Alkalinity Is Important in Your Pool

Total alkalinity is the pool water’s “pH buffer.” It helps prevent your pH from bouncing around and keeps your water chemistry stable.

Why it matters:

* 🧪 Stabilizes pH: Helps prevent rapid pH swings.
* 🛡️ Protects your pool and equipment: Proper balance helps reduce the risk of corrosion from low pH or scaling from high pH.
* 👀 Improves swimmer comfort: Properly balanced water is generally less irritating to eyes and skin.
* 💧 Makes chlorine work more consistently: Stable pH allows chlorine to perform more effectively.
* 🧱 Helps prevent scaling: Keeping alkalinity and pH in balance helps reduce calcium scale on surfaces and equipment.

🏊‍♀️ POOL CHEMISTRY LESSON

🧪 Alkalinity is the Father.

💧 pH is the Son.

Think of alkalinity as the foundation that helps control and stabilize pH.

Alkalinity acts as a buffer, helping prevent pH from making sudden swings. When alkalinity is properly balanced, maintaining your pH becomes much easier.

👉 Alkalinity = stability
👉 pH = the actual acidic/basic balance of the water

💡 The bottom line:
Get your alkalinity balanced, and your pH has a much better chance of staying where it belongs.

Typical target: For many residential pools, total alkalinity is maintained around 80–120 ppm, although the ideal range can vary depending on the pool surface, sanitizer system, and manufacturer’s recommendations.

For total alkalinity, the target isn’t determined solely by whether the pool is vinyl, gunite, or fiberglass. The sanitizer system and overall water chemistry also matter. But these are good general residential targets:

Pool Type Typical Total Alkalinity Range
Vinyl liner 80–120 ppm
Gunite / plaster 80–120 ppm
Fiberglass 80–120 ppm

🧪 A practical target

For many residential pools, 80–100 ppm is a good working range, particularly when you’re trying to keep pH stable without encouraging excessive scaling.

Important: Gunite/plaster pools can require especially careful attention to calcium hardness, pH, and alkalinity together, because all three contribute to the water’s saturation balance and protection of the plaster surface.

For a fiberglass pool, don’t assume that because the surface is nonporous you can ignore alkalinity. Proper alkalinity still helps stabilize pH and maintain balanced water.

🧪 What Happens When Pool Alkalinity Is Too High or Too Low?

⬇️ When alkalinity is too LOW:

* pH can swing up and down quickly
* pH may become difficult to keep stable
* Water can become corrosive
* It can contribute to damage of metal components and pool surfaces
* Swimmers may experience eye or skin irritation
* You may find yourself constantly chasing the pH

⬆️ When alkalinity is too HIGH:

* pH can become difficult to lower
* pH tends to drift upward
* Cloudy water can occur
* Higher pH and calcium levels can increase the potential for calcium scaling
* The water can become more difficult to keep chemically balanced

🏊‍♀️ Easy way to remember:

LOW alkalinity = unstable pH
HIGH alkalinity = stubborn/high pH

That’s why alkalinity is often described as the buffer that keeps your pH stable.

🏊‍♀️ How alkalinity is applied in pool maintenance

* Stabilizes pH: Alkalinity helps prevent pH from changing too rapidly.
* Protects against acidic conditions: It neutralizes acids that enter the pool, including those produced when certain sanitizers are used.
* Helps maintain consistent water chemistry: Proper alkalinity makes it easier to keep pH in the desired range.
* Protects surfaces and equipment: Proper balance helps reduce the potential for corrosive or scaling conditions.

Supports sanitizer performance: Keeping pH stable helps chlorine function as intended.

🧪 How to Add Alkalinity to Pool Water

Step-by-step:

1. Test the water first.
Know your current alkalinity level before adding anything.
2. Determine how much is needed.
Use the product’s dosage instructions based on your pool’s gallons and current alkalinity.
3. Add the alkalinity increaser gradually.
Don’t dump a large amount in all at once.
4. Add it with the pool circulating.
Distribute the chemical according to the product/manufacturer directions.
5. Allow the water to circulate.
Give the chemical time to disperse before testing again.
6. Retest total alkalinity and pH.
Make additional adjustments only if testing shows they’re necessary.

🏊‍♀️ POOL CHEMISTRY LESSON: ALKALINITY — DO’S & DON’TS

✅ ALKALINITY DO’S

✔️ DO test your alkalinity regularly.
Keeping an eye on it helps you maintain stable pH.

✔️ DO adjust alkalinity gradually.
Small adjustments are better than making a large correction all at once.

✔️ DO balance alkalinity before chasing pH problems.
If alkalinity is significantly out of range, getting it balanced can make managing pH much easier.

✔️ DO follow your pool manufacturer’s recommended range.
Different pools and sanitizer systems can have different targets.

✔️ DO allow chemicals to circulate properly after adding them.
Give your pool time to mix before retesting.

❌ ALKALINITY DON’TS

🚫 DON’T assume alkalinity and pH are the same thing.
They work together, but they are two different measurements.

🚫 DON’T dump large amounts of alkalinity increaser into the pool at once.
More isn’t always better.

🚫 DON’T continually add chemicals without testing first.
You can create an imbalance by treating a problem that isn’t actually there.

🚫 DON’T ignore high alkalinity.
High alkalinity can make pH difficult to control and may contribute to scaling.

🚫 DON’T ignore low alkalinity.
Low alkalinity can allow pH to fluctuate rapidly and can contribute to corrosive water conditions.

💡 REMEMBER:
Alkalinity = pH stability.
Keeping it properly balanced makes maintaining the rest of your pool chemistry much easier!

🏊‍♀️ S&S Pools — Helping you understand your pool, one chemical at a time!

Next week, we’ll take a deeper dive into pH and explain what every pool owner needs to know to maintain balanced water and protect their pool and equipment.

09/22/2026

It’s officially the FIRST DAY OF FALL! 🎃🍂

Even though the temperatures may start cooling down, there’s still plenty of pool time to enjoy! ☀️💦 Now is a great time to make sure your pool is properly balanced and ready for the changing seasons.

At S&S Pools, we’re here to help you take care of your pool year-round! 💙

🍁 Happy First Day of Fall from our family to yours! 🍁

09/21/2026

🍂 Monday before the first day of Fall! 🍂

One last Monday of summer before we officially welcome Fall tomorrow! 🎃🍁

Cooler days are coming, leaves will start changing, and pool season is winding down—but there’s still time to enjoy those final swims! 🏊‍♀️☀️

Happy Monday from S&S Pools! 💦
Enjoy these last days of summer! 🍂

09/18/2026

🌴 It’s Friday! Time to Review This Week’s Pool Lesson! 💦

This week, we talked all about CALCIUM HARDNESS 🧪

Calcium hardness is an important part of maintaining balanced pool water and protecting your pool investment. Too little can lead to damage and corrosion, while too much can contribute to scaling and cloudy water.

💡 Remember: Properly balanced water helps protect your pool and its equipment for years to come!

Did you miss this week’s lesson? Go back and check it out! 📚💦

And don’t forget… next week, we’re learning all about TOTAL ALKALINITY! 🧪

Have a great Friday and a wonderful weekend! ☀️🏊‍♂️

S&S Pools — Keeping you informed so you can take better care of your pool!

09/16/2026

💧 Week 1:
Pool Chemistry Lesson: Calcium Hardness

💧 Calcium Hardness — Protecting Your Pool Investment
Calcium hardness is an important part of balanced pool water. Unlike chlorine, calcium doesn’t simply disappear from the water. Once properly adjusted, it can remain in your pool for years. Maintaining the proper level helps protect your pool and equipment from aggressive water and calcium scale.

What is calcium hardness?

Calcium hardness measures the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. It’s an important part of balanced pool chemistry because it helps protect the pool surface and equipment.

Total hardness is a measurement of the mineral salts present in the water. Mineral salts include calcium, magnesium, aluminum, iron, and manganese. The main culprit present in hard water is calcium. Some 70 to 75% of total hardness is made up of calcium.

Symptoms of total hardness problems:

1. Corrosion of pipes or equipment and dissolving pool wall plaster:
These signal a low total hardness.

2. Cloudy water:
This signals high total hardness from suspended calcium carbonate and scale. High total hardness will also cause chlorine to lose effectiveness as a sanitizer. Lots of calcium in milk is a good thing, but in a swimming pool, lots of calcium can be a bad thing. High calcium will cause other minerals to fall out of solution.

Why is it important?

⬇️ Too little calcium hardness

* Can cause water to become corrosive.
* May damage plaster, grout, concrete, and some pool equipment.
* Can cause the water to pull calcium from the pool surface.

⬆️ Too much calcium hardness

* Can cause scale buildup on the pool surface and equipment.
* May leave white or cloudy deposits.
* Can contribute to cloudy water and reduced circulation efficiency.

🎯 Ideal range

For most residential pools, calcium hardness is generally kept around 200–400 ppm, although the ideal target can vary depending on the pool surface and manufacturer recommendations.

The ideal calcium hardness reading for a vinyl pool liner is 150 to 200 ppm, through a range of 175 to 275 ppm is also wildly recommended to protect metal equipment and pool heaters.

The ideal calcium hardness reading for a gunite or concrete pool is 200 to 400 ppm, with a target range of 250 to 350 ppm preferred by many pool professionals.

The ideal, calcium hardness reading for a fiberglass pool is under 120 ppm according to modern fiberglass manufacturers.

One important point: follow the fiberglass pool manufacturer’s specifications if they give a different range, since recommendations can vary by manufacturer and water chemistry.

Controlling total hardness:
Low total hardness:
To raise calcium hardness, add calcium chloride, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

High total hardness:
The most effective way to deal with high hardness in the water is by draining the pool.

Always remember!!!!

The key: Calcium hardness is one piece of the overall water-balance equation. You want your calcium hardness, pH, alkalinity, and sanitizer levels working together—not just one number by itself.

Simple way to remember it:
👉 Too low = water can be aggressive.
👉 Too high = water can form scale.
👉 Balanced = better protection for your pool.

Do we lose calcium hardness?

Calcium hardness is different from chlorine—it doesn’t get used up quickly. Once calcium is dissolved in the pool water, it can remain there for a very long time.

* 💧 Normal evaporation: Calcium stays behind when water evaporates, so hardness can actually increase over time.
* 🚿 Adding fresh water: If your source water has lower calcium, it can dilute the level.
* 💦 Splash-out/backwashing/draining: These remove calcium-containing water, which can lower hardness when replaced with fresh water.
* 🧱 Scale formation: Calcium can come out of solution and deposit on surfaces if the water is out of balance.
* 🏊 Pool surface: Plaster/concrete pools can exchange calcium with the water, so their needs can differ from fiberglass or vinyl pools.

Bottom line: If you add calcium hardness increaser, you generally don’t need to add it again every week. It may remain effective for months or even years, depending on how much water the pool loses and replaces.

For a fiberglass pool, calcium hardness is especially important to keep balanced because the pool surface itself doesn’t supply calcium the way a plaster pool can.

Calcium hardness can remain in pool water for many years, potentially 5–7 years or longer, if the pool doesn’t experience significant water replacement. It isn’t a chemical that gets consumed like chlorine.

However, saying it lasts exactly 5–7 years isn’t always accurate. Its longevity depends on water replacement, dilution, backwashing, splash-out, draining, and calcium precipitation/scale formation.

Calcium vs. Winter:

* 🎯 Aim for roughly 250–350 ppm (unless your manufacturer specifies otherwise).
* ❄️ Winter itself doesn’t create a need for additional calcium.
* 💧 If you’re draining, backwashing, or adding a lot of fresh water, test the calcium hardness afterward because your level may change.
* ⚠️ If calcium is already high, adding more can increase the risk of scale, particularly if pH and alkalinity are elevated.
* 🧪 Test before adding calcium increaser rather than dosing based on the season.

Simple rule:
Test → determine the level → adjust only if needed.

For a fiberglass pool that’s properly balanced going into winter, there’s usually no reason to add calcium hardness simply for winterization. Less than 120 ppm.

Application:

Calcium hardness increaser (usually calcium chloride) can get quite warm when it dissolves in water. The dissolving process is exothermic, meaning it releases heat.

For pool use:

* 🌡️ The water can become noticeably warm around the chemical.
* ⚠️ Never pour water onto a large amount of calcium chloride. It can heat rapidly and potentially splash.
* 💧 Add the chemical to a bucket of pool water according to the product label, typically in smaller portions.
* 🌀 Keep the pump running so it disperses properly.
* 🧤 Avoid direct skin/eye contact and follow the product’s safety instructions.

So if you’re adding calcium hardness increaser and notice the water getting warm, that’s normal.

Review:

💧 Calcium Hardness — What Pool Owners Should Know

1. It isn’t something you need to adjust frequently.
Calcium hardness doesn’t get consumed like chlorine. Test it periodically and adjust only when necessary.

2. Don’t confuse hardness with alkalinity.
They are two different measurements. Calcium hardness measures calcium in the water, while total alkalinity measures the water’s ability to resist pH changes.

3. High calcium can be just as problematic as low calcium.
Too much calcium, particularly when pH and alkalinity are high, can contribute to scale and cloudy water.

4. Evaporation doesn’t remove calcium.
When water evaporates, the calcium stays behind. If you continually top off a pool with hard water, calcium hardness can gradually increase.

5. Water replacement can change your calcium level.
Backwashing, splash-out, leaks, or draining and refilling can lower or dilute calcium depending on the calcium hardness of the replacement water.

6. Fiberglass pools still need balanced calcium.
Even though fiberglass doesn’t have a plaster surface that needs calcium protection, maintaining appropriate water balance helps protect the overall pool system and equipment.

7. Calcium hardness is part of the bigger picture.
Don’t look at calcium alone. pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, temperature, and sanitizer levels all work together to determine whether pool water is balanced.

8. Test your source water.
If you’re regularly adding well water or municipal water, knowing its calcium hardness can help explain why your pool’s level rises or falls over time.

9. Don’t add calcium just because it’s winter.
Test first. If the level is already appropriate, adding more isn’t beneficial.

10. Add calcium carefully.
Calcium chloride releases heat when it dissolves. Follow the product label, add it properly, and allow good circulation.

Remember chemicals go into water, not water into chemicals! Get your bucket of pool water FIRST!

Test it, balance it, and protect your investment! 🏊‍♂️💦

Next week, we’ll take a deeper dive into ALKALINITY and explain what every pool owner needs to know to keep their water balanced and their pool protected.

S & S Pools

10/09/2026

10/07/2026

10/06/2026

09/30/2026

09/25/2026

09/23/2026

09/22/2026

09/21/2026

09/18/2026

09/16/2026

Address

Opening Hours

Website

Alerts

Contact The Business

Shortcuts

Share

Listing takedown request

Tuesday	9am - 2pm
Wednesday	9am - 1pm
Thursday	9am - 1pm
Friday	9am - 1pm