11/18/2019
In answer to repeated requests for a follow-up to our tech article by Stroker Ace and Clyde Torkel Racing's crew chief, Lugs Harvey, we went in search of the one man who personifies stock car construction. We sought out the one man who can, even in the modern era of car builders employing wind tunnels, computers, and dynamometers, build a championship Stock Car in the rickety barn on his farm. And one foggy September morning, we found that man riding a tractor on his small farm in North Carolina. That man is none other than Harry Hogge, the championship crew chief for Cole Trickle, who drove car dealer Tim Daland's Mello Yello Chevrolet to the NASCAR championship in 1990.
So without further adieu, here is the man himself, Harry Hogge.
Thank you, now let's get down to the business of building an AWRA Stock car.
First, we will start with the chassis. The chassis is the basis of any race car, and there are several good options for your AWRA Stock Car. You will want a strong chassis the can withstand hard crashes, but will also give some flex. The AWRA allows the Stock Cars to be braced, and that bracing is crucial to a successful race car. The Riggen 5003 is cut to allow for a lot of flex, which makes it outhandle the conventional AWRA chassis. Add bracing, and you have a hard to beat oval car. Another choice is the LVJ Charger, which is available in both steel and brass. The LVJ has been criticized for being easy to bend, but when braced properly, it is a rugged and good handling chassis. The wild card in the deck is the R-GEO Raven, which has been shattering track records on the Virginia oval tracks. Only time will tell, but mark my words, this chassis will win a lot of races.
When it comes to powering your round tracker, the JK Mini Brute is the motor that most crew chiefs swear by. The Mini Brute combines torque with the essential good top end and it has won more races than any other motor in this class. But, I have a tip for you. There are two other motors that are identical to the Mini Brute and they are both legal as well. The Kelly Bullet has won a lot of races at Cordle Model Speedway in Georgia, and the H&R Lightning motor just won in its first AWRA appearance at Thunderdome in California. These motors are the exact same motor as the Mini Brute, so take your pick, they will all perform for you.
All the engine in the world won't win races for you if you can't get that power to the ground. A car that won't hook up is a weapon on the race track. To win in the AWRA, you need the proper tires. AWRA rules require lettered tires on the front and back of your race car, and there is no better choice than the Pro Track Daytona Stockers. Ask your local raceway owner for a special matched set of Daytona Stockers and you're on your way to victory. With a perfect matched set that are staggered special, you can even pass on the outside in turn four.
You will need a good set of gears to keep friction at a minimum and get a good mesh. Most of the AWRA stockers are running a 9 tooth pinion, with a good quality crown gear. The most popular setup is a 9/28 pinion/crown setup using an ARP or Sonic pinion and a Parma crown.
Now the car I built for Cole Trickle was shaved an inch and shaped like a bullet. That might work in NASCAR, but you will never pass AWRA tech with sheet metal like that. The best choice for your sheet metal is a round front Thunderbird or a Lumina from Caveman Bodeez or S&E Bodies. All four of these bodies are as aerodynamic as the rules allow, and they are proven race winners.
So, what do I recommend for your AWRA Stock Car setup? Here's the scoop.
Chassis - I have to go with the R-GEO Raven
Motor - JK Mini Brute
Gears - 9 tooth ARP beveled pinion and a 28 tooth Koford crown
Sheet Metal - Caveman Bodeez Chevrolet Lumina
Tires- Pro Track Daytona Stockers
This setup will give you the right stuff to run out front.