08/31/2026
7 Long forgotten cycling habits that could extend the life of your e-bike
I started this thinking of the obvius things like not overcharging, but most of that we discuss regularly. The first thing that came to mind otherwise though should, but isn't common knowledge...
You are no longer a 90 pound teenager on a single speed BMX bike. Slamming in to curbs and jumping things have way worse consequences on a thin multi-speed chain, bigger wheels, way more weight and no where near the same front to rear balance of an e-bike. I get it, there is a small number here who actually do real mtb'ing. Those of you who do though know that it is expensive and expect it. I get way too many who just don't understand why their 80 #, fendered cruiser isn't built for ramps (just because you can do something does not mean you should). Try to avoid obstacles.
Are you approaching an obstacle in the road that you can't go around? Get off the saddle and put your weight on the pedals instead. For most, that rear wheel is already carrying most of your weight, the weight of the bike and everything you are carrying. Those same spokes your motor rests on and twists against (be sure to have that spoke tension checked at least annually). That load is multiplied when you hit a bump. You wouldn't slam your car into a curb, don't do it on your bike!
All bikes, "e" or not, are most efficient pedaled at a cadence of 60-90rpm, pressing no harder than as if walking on the same surface (some skilled riders are efficient above 110). This isn't just good cardio. It reduces strain on your chain, crank, deraileur and even your frame (aluminum is a LOT more brittle than the steel you once knew). Yes, you can go a bit faster pressing harder, but the return on investment is largely lost due to flexing, especially on an e-bike. All that power is going through your drive train, including your motor. It is hard on our joints and even our hearts. Cycling, being 5-7 times more efficient than walking, is not about muscle building. At best it is passable aerobic activity.
Any weight you can move from the rear of your bike to the front will greatly improve wheel life. Rebuilding or replacing a rear wheel is a lot bigger deal with a hub motor than on your old touring bike. Serious touring cyclists learn to load their bikes 60% front and 40% rear. They put bulky, relatively light, things like their tent and sleeping bag, at the rear. They put heavier cooking utensils, tools and such up front. Same thing for using frame bags for you bike packer kids (my touring bike will always have traditional panniers front and rear).
Maximum tire pressure is pretty much based on a 280 # rider on a 30 # bike. Too much pressure and your tires stutter bounce over small obstacles causing you to loose a lot of efficiency. They feel faster because of that tiny loss of control, but they are not as fast or efficient. Most of us would do better about 10 # 's under max. Over inflated fat tires (3.5"+) will bounce like a basketball and can get dangerous real fast. Likewise under inflation increases your contact patch, making it more likely you will pick up a thorn or piece of glass. Obviously, it is less efficient as well and can even increase your stopping distance. Both over inflation and under are bad for your spokes. Check that pressure at least twice a month as well as before any long rides.
Modern handlebars are extremely thin. If you lean on them hard they will bend. This is especially true of the extra long flat bars that were actually designed for better leverage, riding off road. If you ride pavement mostly, your bars should be 2-4" maximum wider than your shoulders. At least for any ride over 10 miles. Most of my customers are literally shocked at how cutting their bar length improved their comfort and handling (put your hands out to the sides the table before you. Now draw your hands in and see what it does to weight transfer and riding position). If you have wrist pain, elbows, your outside two fingers getting numb or pain between your shoulder blades, this is the first place to look. It reduces the chance of bending your bars, is easier on your stem and headset by reducing leverage. It can even make your suspension fork or stem more efficient at handling smaller obstacles.
Point your saddle at the top of your stem. We see racers with saddles pointed down at slammed stems. Sometimes, on newer bikes, they are level because the bottom of their seat nose is even with their stem (they are finding this position is more aero). Most of our bikes have a stem that is higher than our saddles and riser bars besides. Pointed at our stems pushes our butts back to the wider, cushier portion of the saddle. This takes some weight off your bars, headset and seatpost bolt. It is a lot easier on suspension and dropper seatposts as well.
NOTE: If you have a nowdays more rare, thin seat tube, do not grease your seatpost. It will be more likely to slide and you'll over tighten the seat clamp, causing damage. Use assembly paste. It is a form of grease, but it has something akin to silica sand mixed in. Works a charm.
