Gustafson Guiding

Gustafson Guiding Mountain Guide, Amateur Cook and Mechanic.

The NoseMartin and I climbed together back in 2024 and he told me about his dream to climb El Cap. It’s a huge and chall...
05/24/2026

The Nose
Martin and I climbed together back in 2024 and he told me about his dream to climb El Cap. It’s a huge and challenging goal but we did it! It took us 3 nights on the wall but we pulled it off! Saw some friends, dealt with some typical big wall shenanigans but it went! Here are some photos! Look forward to climbing with you again Martin!

Back in that special place
05/07/2026

Back in that special place

Taking some time off the app
01/14/2026

Taking some time off the app

Bridezilla (Wedding Industrial Complex) 5.12b? 13 pitches approximately 1500’Last May I walked the Taft point trail with...
10/31/2025

Bridezilla (Wedding Industrial Complex)
5.12b? 13 pitches approximately 1500’
Last May I walked the Taft point trail with a handful of old ropes and rappelled down looking for a route. I know there’s a sport crag and an old Galen Rowell aid line up the thing but ultimately my suspicion was there was cool rock and untapped potential. That was definitely confirmed. The duration of the undertaking I had greatly misjudged and over the course of the last year and half I’ve spent a lot of time swinging around figuring out a free route up the face. Around a week ago I felt like I could give the route a go and got .gram to help support me on a lead burn. It took far longer than I expected, I forgot food and ran out of water. Somehow I managed to send the route, yet it still needs better equipping, more rappel anchors to get down with a single rope and also a few variations that look really good. Here’s some photos, I did a bad job taking photos on the go. Next season I hope to get it equipped right and make it a more repeatable modern climb.
1. Mark pulling out the lip of the 24 Karat Roof.
2. Me above the crux on the 24 Karat Roof, pump ensuing.
3. Mark atop P5.
4. Mark on P4.
5. Mark on P1.
6. P10, for me this is the crux, every beautiful dikes.
7. Me sitting on Honeymoon Ledge on a day microing the route.
8. Bottom of the route p1-5 in view.
9. P11. Leaving Las Vegas.
10. Looking up at Taft, if you feel like approaching from the valley floor.
11. Hand drawn topo, I’m not much of an artist.

Fall in fast forward. Wow the end of the season felt incredibly fast, between personal climbing goals (I will do a separ...
10/28/2025

Fall in fast forward. Wow the end of the season felt incredibly fast, between personal climbing goals (I will do a separate post), work and getting my WFR recertification the season wrapped up in a total whirlwind here’s to another amazing year in park!
1. A great day out with
2. Last minute wall guiding on Southern Man
3. Salmon Chowder on Dinner Ledge, definitely stoked!
4. Taking a couple brothers out on a fun multi pitch.
5. Checking out fun new routes at Swan Lake!
6. Thanks for visiting mom and dad! I love you!

Tuolumne Meadows is still good!
09/07/2025

Tuolumne Meadows is still good!

July. The most wonderful time of the year?
07/24/2025

July. The most wonderful time of the year?

Dan on the classic NEB.
05/15/2025

Dan on the classic NEB.

Getting back in the swing of things! Super fun day taking Mike up his multi pitch!
04/22/2025

Getting back in the swing of things! Super fun day taking Mike up his multi pitch!

Party Shirts, Party Time, EXCELLENT! Back in the ditch!
04/13/2025

Party Shirts, Party Time, EXCELLENT! Back in the ditch!

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Anaheim, CA

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