24/06/2026
DAY 4: Of laughs, tears, love, and French bears 🧸
This morning, we finally crossed into France 🇫🇷
We started the day on the outskirts of Pamplona and climbed toward the Pyrenees, reaching just below 1000 m. Going up, the air changed.
At the top, Kili Velotto and I got the van ready for a technical stop and made the most of it by putting the Moka on: tiny roadside luxury — thanks to Flem Mountain Lodge
Too bad Lael Wilcox climbs like a train: no time to drink it!
Going down the road was so wet and slippery that I spent the whole time clenching my jaw. I know Lael has the skills, and I trust her judgment. I just do not trust wet tarmac, fast rolling, and gravity all working together.
Next stop: Itxassou, where S T E V E N L E H Y A R I C was waiting for her. Steven has GravelMan Series going on at the moment, but he couldn’t miss the chance to see Lael during her ride around the world. We stopped a little further down the road to refill Lael’s bottles, and he came to hug us, hot and sweaty. Then he did what Steven does best: talk about love and friendship until everyone gets emotional.
The next section was slow to drive, with narrow roads, traffic, roundabouts, and all the small things that make a van much slower than a bike. It was hard to catch up, and everyone was tense.
For another 100 km, Lael had company on the bike, and we moved through the freshness of the pine forests around Bayonne. What an incredible change again. The coast here is famous for its long beaches and waves, but just inland, the landscape becomes a green tunnel of maritime pines.
As we moved closer to Bordeaux through the Parc naturel régional des Landes de Gascogne, the forest kept extending around us.
And somewhere in that long stretch, we hit the daily low. Rue and I stayed on the phone with Lael until she felt better. In the meantime, Kili tried to understand what was happening with the van’s brakes. After the big wet descent in the morning, they had started making weird noises. Of course, one stressful thing at a time would be too easy.
Closer to Bordeaux, more riders joined. The tension finally started to break. We laughed again, and Lael had another big day in the bag.