19/02/2013
Adam Ondra training interview :
What are the reasons for your successful trip? Have you done any special training?
I took one week off after failure in December. Then I trained a lot of power on campus board, bouldered and power endurance with a focus on proper recovery like going to the sauna and stretching. Easy If I don't have to go to school.
I focused on quality rather than on quantity as in the last years. Doing three or four routes per training sessions on my limit with longer rests in between proved to be so much more efficient than climbing ten routes of lower level. It doesn't almost feel like training, I go home still fresh, but it works.
In the past, when I was training, I wanted to go back home completely crushed, but it is not the way, especially right before your trip to take down your project. The reason I finally sent La Dura dura and the others could be that I am
now just a tiny bit stronger enough for being able to take down the projects that seemed close last year.
How many hours of climbing and complementary training every week and how is it structured?
You could call it an experiment with semi-structured training. I mainly train alone but most of the time together with a good crew in the gym. 15 h a week I climb and 3 h something different like running, stretching and compensation training on mat (based a little on yoga).
What are your strength and weaknesses?
My strength are motivation, passion, technique. I am weak in terms of pure power but I have been working on it for three years now. And that helped me to progress. And I am still hoping it will help in future to reach new horizons in climbing. (c) Alvaro Susena - Flexibility could be added to his strength