23/08/2026
I really enjoyed this V6 after the coaching social with and crew.
It's no secret I love a good crimp.
In climbing, a crimp refers to both a very small, narrow edge handhold and the specific gripping technique used to hold onto it. When "crimping," a climber places only their fingertips (usually just the first pad) flat against the edge and hyperextends or bends their finger joints to exert downward pressure. (5 life climbing)
There are 3 main versions of the crimp:
1. Open Crimp (Open-Hand)
The Position: Your fingers drag softly over the edge with the middle joints relatively straight or extended.
The Thumb: Hand relaxed with the thumb hanging completely free below the hold.
The Benefit: It is the safest grip for your tendons and burns the least amount of energy.
The Catch: It provides the least amount of mechanical leverage on flat, sharp edges.
2. Half Crimp
The Position: Your index, middle, and ring fingers bend at a strict 90-degree angle at the middle joint.
The Thumb: Positioned neutrally, resting either against the side of your index finger or directly on the hold.
The Benefit: It is the best all-around grip, offering a perfect balance of high power and manageable injury risk.
The Catch: It requires substantial active finger strength to maintain that strict 90-degree angle under load.
3. Full Crimp
The Position: Your finger joints bend sharply past 90 degrees, hyperextending the tips.
The Thumb: Wrapped tightly over the top of your index fingernail to lock the grip in place.
The Benefit: It provides maximum closing power and mechanical leverage on paper-thin edges.
The Catch: It places extreme stress on your finger pulleys, making it the most common cause of climbing finger injuries.
