Cycle Art

Cycle Art We are a general cycle shop selling electric, road, gravel, mountain, kids and hybrid bikes.

Our leading brands include Giant, Liv, Merida, Ridley, Ebco and Moda.

*****  Grand end-of-summer drop-bar bike sale  *****Rather than wait until winter, Cycle Art is announcing a Grand Sale ...
25/08/2026

***** Grand end-of-summer drop-bar bike sale *****

Rather than wait until winter, Cycle Art is announcing a Grand Sale on ALL of our drop-bar bikes while the sun still shines and the leaves are still on the trees.

Yes, that's all our road bikes, gravel bikes, aero bikes, TT bikes and even our e-gravel bikes. Huge savings.

(Our Ebco e-bike sale continues with high-quality fully-built e-bikes from as little as £999 while stocks last.)

30/07/2026

***** SUMMER SUNDAY OPENING *****

From this Sunday (2nd August) until the end of September Cycle Art is pleased to announce that we will be open on Sundays from 11am to 4pm.

This is something we have often considered but frankly no one wished to give up their main cycling day even though it made sense to be open on a Sunday when so many are off work.

So we will see how it goes and if it proves useful to people we will do it again next summer. Let us know your thoughts.

With the Time Trial season in full swing, we have for sale this older model but brand new time-trial or tri bike:  It's ...
28/07/2026

With the Time Trial season in full swing, we have for sale this older model but brand new time-trial or tri bike: It's a lightweight BMC, custom-built from a Timemachine carbon aero frame, Shimano 105 groupset, bar-end shifters and Mavic Aksium wheels, plus 105 rim brakes.

It's classed as a medium/short but if you know anything about TT bikes you'll know that sizing is a little weird and riders will generally size down a whole size from a conventional road bike when getting one of these speed machines.

(For reference: it measures 46cm centre of seat-tube along the frame to the centre of the headstock and 54cm centre of BB to the top of the frame where the seatpost emerges. Typically we'd expect the rider to be in the range 5' 8" to 5' 11" but clearly, if this is of interest then come down and try it for size as overall height is only a starting point. The seatpost is long at the moment but we will cut it so as to provide movement either way for further tweaks.)

The standard model was £2700 but we are offering this custom bike at just £1750. You would struggle to buy a good carbon frameset alone for that.

18/07/2026

Due to a staff shortage we will be closing on Monday 20th July through to Friday the 24th July, reopening on Saturday 25th at 1pm.

We are really sorry to have to do this but it is unavoidable. We are open today (Sat 18/7) until 5pm as normal.

07/01/2026

Often at this time of year you'll hear people complaining about the apparent interminable duration of January - "Seems like 51 days!" they bemoan.

However, I don't see it like that at all. By January 1st the light is already ten minutes longer in the evening (I always think that the daylight turning is like the tide: slow at first but gaining pace steadily) and there's fresh hope and optimism in the New Year.

Sure you have to pick your moments carefully to get out when the weather is like it is right now - temperature freezing one minute and then popping up to the giddy heights of a healthy fridge... but, you can hold onto the fact that the light and warmth are only going one way.

On that note, don't leave it until Spring is springing to get any repairs or projects into us. The more, might we say, casual cyclists will always leave their bikes until the first nicer days come - which can be April or even earlier - and at that point workshops can go from thumb-twiddling to overwhelmed in a weekend. So beat the rush - those 51 days some feel make up January, actually takes us to March now!

20/12/2025

A very Merry Christmas to everyone from us here at Cycle Art in Low Prudhoe.

Our Christmas opening times are as follows:

Open as normal until Christmas Eve.

Christmas Eve............................ 9am to 1pm

Closed Christmas Day and Boxing Day

Saturday 27th.............................open as normal 9am to 5pm

Closed Sunday 28th as per normal

Open again as normal on the run up to New Year including New Year's Eve

Closed New Year's Day

Open as normal after that.

(Which is just a long winded way of saying that we are only closed for the statutory holidays plus a half day Christmas Eve. :) )

Yes, it's bleeding Christmas time:Mistletoe and wine, logs in your panniers and gifts that aren't free. So what DO you g...
06/12/2025

Yes, it's bleeding Christmas time:

Mistletoe and wine, logs in your panniers and gifts that aren't free.

So what DO you get for the cyclist in your life who already has everything conceivable for his/her bike and plenty that isn't.

We think we can help. Take a look at the following ideas handcrafted like Kirstie's Handmade Christmas (the ideas that is, not the items).

If there's nothing they really need then the secret is to get stuff that they will always use OR that you can never have too many of. Some might seem a little boring, but to the cyclist in your life, sitting in front of the logs on the fire but watching the pitter patter of rain on the window possibly drying up (?) and wondering if they can sneak out for a quickie instead of watching the King's Speech (which mother-in-law is insisting on seeing), they will make their eyes glow at the thought of the cycling to come:

Lights, especially rears. Even decent lights are not at all expensive these days and they are just the sort of thing that they might be currently switching between bikes and then ending up being somewhere and realising they never swapped them back and now it's getting gloomy.... Plus they can leap off, get lost or be borrowed - as they make great torches - but aren't then returned to the bike. Also, many riders are now using lights like our motor-biker friends - day and night for extra safety BUT they only have a set on their second bike not their "good" machine.

Bells. Ok so they won't want one on their TCR Advanced SL and they'd never go get one themselves but for their gravel bike - it's nicer than shouting. As ideas go, it's both fun and sensi-bell. Ahem.

Cleaning tools - even if they have these things, it's always useful as they get mangy. A good one is the humble chain cleaning tool which looks like a mini car wash, but for chains. (We sell all this stuff by the way but this is DEFINITELY not a selling job, honest.) Another good one is the cassette brush - see their little face light up with the thought of really getting stuck into that road grime after tea (which no one wants because they are still totally stuffed from lunch).

Bottle cages and bottles - always getting broken or lost respectively.

Lubricants and degreasers - not the most exciting but also very useful (we have a nice gift pack at the moment...).

A nice new pump - mini or track pump. Again just the thing that gets lost, or borrowed by Mr Next Door and never returned.

A pack of good quality bar-tape. Handlebars lead a hard life. Only problem will be getting the right colour. Cyclists are fussy.

Multi-tools.

Good old-fashioned cycle computer - for those who can't be bothered with Strava. Like me.

A small field mouse called Gerald (ok, just checking that you're still reading this).

Puncture kit and spare tube (read the tyre size though - see previous post!). Worthy but dull, I admit.

A new bike. People do you know.

Above all - do get it all from your local cycle shop, even if that is not us. They need those sales as well as the problems, queries and advice. :)

Merry Christmas One and All.

(And get out on your bike when no one is looking).

Want an electric bike - something decent, not a "fully built" collection of parts arriving on your doorstep in a damaged...
29/11/2025

Want an electric bike - something decent, not a "fully built" collection of parts arriving on your doorstep in a damaged cardboard box - but have a limited budget?

We are offering, reduced from £1399 to just £999, the Electric Bike Company (EBCO) Urban 2.

In striking bright blue only, you can have it either with the classic crossbar or the drop frame - what we traditionally called a lady's frame - but many chaps with hip or knee issues (how to confuse a Geordie doctor, tell him you have "knee issues") - like these drop frames too.

What's more, they come fully equipped with mudguards and a rear carrying rack as standard. Even lights are included.

Unlike anything online, these come fully prepared in our workshop and with a free first service to catch everything that settles in, plus of course you get the chance to be sized & fitted to the bike, and importantly, test ride it too.

Furthermore if you have any issues - things can go wrong on occasions - you have somewhere local to sort it out for you.

Want something even better? We have a comprehensive range of higher spec EBCOs and Giant e-bikes in store too.

Today, a shorter piece (who said "Thank God"?) to try and cut through the confusion of tyre sizes. We are so used to the...
19/11/2025

Today, a shorter piece (who said "Thank God"?) to try and cut through the confusion of tyre sizes.

We are so used to them in the trade that we forget how obscure the subject is but then I see the blank look when someone asks for a tube for their 700x45 hybrid tyre and I blithely say "700x45? - I'll give you a slim 29er then as the hybrid tubes will be a little narrow. Is it Presta or Schrader ....?"

Firstly, be aware that 700c (and we can drop the "c" bit now as everything 700 is 700c - and no I won't explain the "c" bit as I really am trying to keep this brief) is the same as 29" MTB. You see, mountain bikes have American heritage and they won't deal in mm. The important bit is not the 700mm or 29" but the 622 number that is usually embossed on your tyre in numerals so small you can only read them with the aid of a torch and magnifying glass.

622 is the tyre bead diameter - where it seats onto the rim - in mm and the number after it is the width of the tyre, so, a common road bike size might be 622-25. This is the ETRTO number - a numbering standard that cuts through tyre size chaos. So why is it so much smaller than 700 which is also written on the tyre? Well, 700mm includes the whole tyre. But clearly, for those at the back not already asleep, a bigger tyre - fat hybrid or mountain bike - will give a much greater overall wheel diameter than a slim road tyre so the 700 is just very approximate - which is where the "c" bit comes in but, no, no, I'm not going there, I did promise.

Nowadays - in adult bikes - we have old 26" (MTB that is - there was an older English 26 which was quite bigger) which is 559mm, 27.5, mainly used for MTBs, at 584, and 622 which is road bike, hybrid and 29er MTB.

To really confuse things, many German brands insist on believing that in the UK we call 700 28". We don't and never have. We did used to have 27" (nothing to do with 27.5 MTB) which is 8mm greater diameter than the 622 of 700; so on their reckoning we would be calling a tyre 28" that was smaller than our old 27". Hmm. I've had customers reading this on the inner tube box and returning it as "This is a 28 and I wanted a 700."

You're getting it now I can tell: 622 is 700 is 29er, 27.5" is smaller than old 27", 26" is old MTB and smaller than all of these including old English 26 and 28 does not exist at all other than as a very old English butcher's bike size and in the minds of some European suppliers. So, all as clear as the mud obscuring the tiny figures trying to tell you the actual size on your tyre.

Thus, when wanting to buy a tube or a replacement tyre, forget 700, 29er, etc and always quote the ETRTO number - it's much more accurate - and use the number on the tyre, NOT the tube, as that is a much better guide as to what you need than the tube size as that just tells you what someone stuffed in there sometime ago because it was all they had to hand.

Glad we got that cleared up then!

So today, brakes.  Not a detailed examination of every type of brake ever made as that would be less of an article and m...
29/10/2025

So today, brakes. Not a detailed examination of every type of brake ever made as that would be less of an article and more of a large book but some general hints and tips to cover the most common mistakes riders can make or things they might neglect to do.

As mentioned in the last installment one of the easiest things to do wrong is when trying to do the right thing by lubricating your rear derailleur. Sprays will indeed l**e the mech but also send a fine mist right through the wheel and onto the rear brake disc. And if you have rim brakes any l**es can drip down onto the rim. In both cases the pads then get contaminated as soon as you use the brakes. Cover up your discs - or remove the wheels - when lubing near them.

However, if you think you might have got l**e onto the discs (most likely the rear), don't touch the brake lever; take off the wheel and thoroughly clean the disc. You can use car type brake cleaners or a general bike degreaser - just completely dry them off after with a clean cloth. If you're not comfortable taking the wheel off then you can still clean the disc on the bike - it's just a little more awkward.

If the brake pads have, sadly, got oil on them then normally they will have to be replaced - especially disc pads; rim brake pads seem to be more resilient in that respect. If you're unsure, do the cleaning and then try the bike. If you get howling brakes with perfectly clean discs then the pads will definitely need changing. Some people remove the pads and clean them. If any contamination/dirt is superficial then this can work. Buffing the surface with emery cloth helps. But if the pads have absorbed oil or brake fluid, no amount of cleaning will work.

To clean the rims on rim brake bikes just wheel the bike along with a clean dry cloth rubbing on the rim. Keep changing position until it is running clean. Do both sides obviously. Some folded kitchen roll is good for this. It makes a big difference to the brakes if the rims are clean. My old commuter bike has rim brakes and I clean the rims like this quite regularly as it only takes a minute.

With disc brakes, never pull the brake lever when the wheel is off. This can be especially easily done when getting a bike into your car as you might grab the handlebar during the process and pull the brake without meaning to. With cable operated brakes it doesn't matter, but with hydraulic brakes (more common) it can cause the pistons to push out too far - there's no disc there so the pads won't stop until they meet each other. Brake fluid can leak out and require the brakes to be bled - worse, it can get onto the pads and ruin them. So either be very careful when the wheel is off, or pop in store and we will give you, free of charge, a pair of brake shims. These are just a shaped piece of plastic to take the place of the disc while the wheel is off - they often have a clip which goes onto the retaining pin to keep them in place (but not all pads are held in with a pin so then it is just friction).

Keep an ear out when braking. If the note changes and sounds more scrapy than braky it could well be that the pads are worn out. It's harder to see the state of the pads with disc brakes than rim brakes so get in a good light and/or shine a torch on the caliper. If you do this from time to time then you'll see better the difference between normal and worn. Sometimes riders are surprised at how thin the material is on a new pad. I've had people come in to buy new ones and told them that the current ones are not even half worn so no need to change them yet. (Sometimes I'm not a very good salesman. :) ) Discs of course wear too and if your disc is badly scored it will merely chew up new pads - happily, discs last a long time normally.

When buying pads either bring along the old ones or take a picture of them. Occasionally someone will turn up asking for new pads and I'll ask what it is for, to which they might reply "It's a Specialized..." Things are a little better now than when disc brakes first proliferated but there are still dozens of possibilities, just as there are with cars and it is the type of caliper that matters - the name of the bike is rarely much help. And that goes for most other parts too.

We were talking before about taking a wheel off and if you do, be careful when it goes back on. If you have conventional quick release wheels - they have a spindly skewer with little springs at each end - make sure the wheel is fully home in the drop-outs of the bike when you do up the QR lever. It is easy for the wheel to move a fraction as the lever is done up so a little weight downwards helps hold it in place. If it isn't fully located then you can get disc or rim brake rubbing. On the rear it can also throw the gears out a little. Many bikes now have bolt-through axles and these have the advantage of always locating the wheel correctly - but do keep them greased. Also, watch that the disc is going exactly between the pads and not up the inside of one of them - it's easily done. (On that note, many racing teams continued with rim brakes for the very pragmatic reason that the wheels are faster to change when a rider gets a puncture - those few extra seconds really matter when the peloton is disappearing up the road from you at 30mph!)

Like rear mechs, discs are vulnerable to getting bent so be careful lying the bike down that the disc is not taking any of the weight of the bike - again, the back of a car is the most likely scenario. If you're doing home maintenance, check the brake caliper bolts are tight periodically and the hoses are not kinked or rubbing on the wheel. With rim brakes the pads can develop a lip on them (I don't mean they get in a mood) which causes them to stick and drag. If there's plenty of other pad left then these can be trimmed off and the pads readjusted (because as they wear, the pad moves slowly up or down the rim, depending on the type of brake). Cable operated brakes need more faffing about with to keep in adjustment whereas hydraulics are self-adjusting and should only need pads replacing, until the day comes that you need to change the brake fluid - something we tend to neglect, rather like we do with our cars.

Rim brakes need pretty true wheels to work properly - one advantage of discs is that a little wobble in the wheel has no effect on the braking and of course the rim can merely be a rim - it doesn't have a braking surface to get worn and therefore weaken the structural integrity of the wheel.

There's a lot more to say here but as we are getting into TLDR territory (too long, didn't read) I'd best call it a day. If anyone has any special requests for articles then do let us know.

Address

1a Princess Court, Low Prudhoe
Prudhoe
NE426PL

Opening Hours

Monday 10am - 5pm
Tuesday 10am - 5pm
Wednesday 9am - 5pm
Thursday 10am - 5pm
Friday 10am - 6pm
Saturday 9am - 5pm

Telephone

+441661830618

Website

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