23/06/2023
OFF ROAD CYCLING:35KM/22 MILES, 400METERS CLIMB.
DOWN TO SHORTFLATT , OVER THE WANSBECK , AND THROUGH THE NICK
This ride is in some ways an extended more rugged version of the road ride ‘A long way round to Wallington’. I used to do this route quite a lot but didn’t cope well with the ruts left by four wheel drive enthusiasts on the byway sections east of Shaftoe Crags. However motorised traffic is not allowed there any more , so its loads nicer. What remains a challenge is the large number of people you can encounter on the Shaftoe crags section at the weekend , when you may have to wait to get a clear run down the descents , unless you’re more confident at slaloming round walkers with flailing poles than I am.
KIRKWHELPINGTON TO SANDYFORD
Start on the coach road permissive bridleway over the A696 from the village.Now (June) its dead easy riding on baked mud and then a stoney track.. You follow this for a good 2km.Keep straight over the West Harle crossroads , bear slightly right when you merge onto the tarmac farm drive, and go straight on through the gate onto another stretch of rocky road where the tarmac bears right . Now its down to the ford (knobbly) and the footbridge(smooth ) over the vicarage burn. Then its up and through the gate into the big field. Straight on between a line of big trees and a fence, on a vague muddy track.The fence turns right away from you as the track bends 90 degrees left. Follow along its rutted surface until you meet a wall on your left and follow it up to the gate by Shop Cottages. You’re on tarmac now, and soon hit the outskirts of Kirkharle, which really is also the centre of Kirkharle, more or less . Follow the road as it bends left , leaving the houses behind and ends in a junction with the main Hexham RoadI had a problem here once.I was dog walking and stopped at the edge of the road to bag some badly timed poo. A car came along so I shifted the dogs back from the road, leaving the bag on the very edge of the carriageway where it should have been out of harms way. Except if somebody extra friendly decided to pull their car right over and stop for a chat. Which they did, smiling as they lowered their window. There was a quiet explosion , and a lot of mess.
“Whats wrong?” they said , seeing my shocked expression.
“You’ve just run over my dog muck” I started to say. Only I didn’t get to finish. Because as soon as I uttered the word dog, the driver sort of screamed and went gray.
Its right here , and left to leave the traffic at the top of the hill. You’re now on a lovely undulating back road for 2 km , passing the drive to Kidlaw, with its mounting block, the left turn to Capheaton ,(which you ignore-you get a much better route to Capheaton soon), and finally passing and again ignoring the curving right gravelly entrance to Greatlaw. Down and up the dip and through a gravity assisted gate on the road. Up the road for just 50 meters or so and there is an unsigned gate on your left.Through this and onto the mix of grass and tarmac which once aspired to be a road but like so many of us became absorbed by the countryside. You will reach a heavy wooden challenge gate. You have to lift it and work the latch at the same time , so it’s a 2 hander job.Now the road gradually improves as you move into Capheaton, with some special old buildings on your left. The Old Dovecote, The Old Chapel, The Schoolhouse , Estate cottages. Once my patch as a rural family doctor.Full of tragedy and drama and the amazing nature of people who sometimes seem quite ordinary. And characters of course. The nice elderly gent who turned up to see me determined that I would remove the clips from his large surgical wound.”No no” I said , “its far too soon”. “Well I’ve had very specific instructions” he said, and made it clear that he’d been told it was essential to get the clips removed that very day. In the end he talked me round . Not really a doctors job, but the nurse wasn’t in , and I managed, all 20 or so of them. He was satisfied at the end, and so was I , initially. “Ah she’ll be pleased “ he said. “Who’ll be pleased “ I asked “ The wife of course “ He replied “ it was her idea about the clips”.The conversation with the responsible surgeon , who had set a date in 2 weeks for clip removal , wasn’t easy.
As you ride past the houses you will see Sir Edwards Lake away on your right large and lovely with an island , boathouse and waterfowl.Its said that at one time the family in the big house kept a schooner on the lake, crewed by a one legged sailor.
Putting your 2 legs to work now its on towards the road junction as you approach the postbox . Turn right here, following the road past the sawmill on the right and climbing the hill, to the crossroads at the optimistically named Makemerich farm. Its left here , and a lovely flowing ride gently down the bendy road to the A696. Cross straight over and onto the tarmac track.Pass a farm on the left and through a gate . The countryside feels different here, low and wet and ruled by streams. Soon you will see the buildings of Sandyford on your left. Go straight on,briefly on a deteriorating potholed surface where the main bit of the track curves left.
SANDYFORD TO MARLISH
Soon after the junction you take the signed bridlepath bearing off the road to your left. Easy riding over the faint track on the rough pasture heading sort of half right to get to a low bridge/ford thing with a footbridge on your right and a gate ahead. Through the gate and you are onto a good track following the right field boundary. Across to you left you see more tracks , what looks like an equestrian arena, and new building work. Beyond the new bits you may glimpse the lovely old Shortflatt Tower, which in recent years has become one of the local specialist weddding venues. So I guess that means you’re on a bridal path now. (Get it ? bridAL not bridle oh well please yersel)
Soon the good track ends for you (the honeymoons over , you might say,or maybe not)and you veer left off the track leading to a gate marked private.Along the grassy track ,fence on your left and its through a non-private gate with bridlepath regalia. This steers you left of West Cottage through dense undergrowth. Just the odd nettle,and the path is firm. Through a gate into a bit of field, and you skirt a fallen tree to reach a signed gate behind it , turn left,and follow a fence on your left . Through a gate and the path improves from a vague trod to a lovely mown surface. Carry on until you meet a bridlepath T junction , with a no access gate ahead . Turn through the gate on the left. After one field you go through gates to cross the main access track to Shortflatt Tower. Don’t be tempted by the weddings though . you are otherwise engaged ( this may be an end to the low quality wedding puns!) Straight on , through another field and you emerge onto the Belsay to Bolam Road.
Now its left onto the road. Bear right at the first junction . You’ll see Bolam Lake on your left.Soon you pass the entrance to Bolam Lakes facilities on the left.Ignore it.You don't need the fine filter coffee or excellent scones or well kept toilets .( Cafe weds to Sun,Carrot cake always good,but I'm admitting nothing) Ignore a right turn , climb a bit , ignore a left turn, and look out for the byway on your left about 500 meters further on , as the road bends to the right.This starts as a good tarmac track. Currently (June 2023) it has a large temporary ‘Road closed’ sign. In the past this route was popular for off road motoring ( and the grooves and ruts made for bad riding) It’s a much nicer ride now. The byway changes from tarmac to gravel to grass as you pass three farm houses, the last being Highlaws where its very close to the farm and used to pass through a small field. In the distant past one Sunday morning I hosted a bullock festivity in this field, when a large herd (well they always SEEM large when they’re heading towards you), gave me a full on snorting charge as I ran across. I stood my ground , waved my stick, and they reversed the process , galloping away and knocking over a substantial run of post and rail fence. At this point the farmer appeared. Decent bloke , but not known for moderate opinions. He uttered a splendid self cancelling sentence along the lines of “You f***ing stubid b****** idiot oh doctor I didn’t know it was you how are you? We parted on surprisingly good terms .He apologised . I apologised.The bullocks failed to comment.Past the farm the track becomes elusive over the pasture but you will see the substantial footbridge over the River Wansbeck at the bottom of the shallow valley. Cross this and then its right through a gate to go left on the byway as it emerges from the ford. Its quite overgrown with ruts, and fenced off from the main field.As it approaches a field boundary you bear left, through a gate , keeping that boundary on your right as you go along a faint track.Through a gate you cross the line of the old railway , another gate , and its through a spectacularly overgrown section. Just grass, but its BIG grass. Keep in the same direction , field boundary off to your right. You pass a road closed to vehicles sign and emerge on the tarmac road near Marlish Farm, home to delicious spring water. Always feel a bit thirsty when I ride past here! Turn left on the road.
THROUGH MIDDLETON TO SHAFTOE MOOR FARM
On the road keep left at the junction and pass The Ox Inn, assuming the thirst is under control. Pass the buildings, with the village hall on your right , and wait for the last house on the left side of the road. A track crosses the road here. Its not signed. Leaving the road the track between buildings is well defined , leading on through a farmyard to a gate. Follow the rough but (currently-June 2023)firm and easily rideable track down the field with the boundary planting on your right. This will lead you to a ford through the River Wansbeck. To me this is a bit deep and uneven to be ridden. The option is a footbridge which is fairly well hidden on your right , and which seems at first to point in the wrong direction because the river is so twisty here. Over the good bridge you go and turn left to wheel along the undefined footpath following the river bank . A gate takes you to the point where the byway emerges from the ford. Now its right along the rutted track between fences , curving left and right to follow the field boundary, gently uphill , still not bad to ride , until you pass through a gate into the farmyard of Corridge farm and on past the buildings to the track which winds to join the road. Its left here,and along to the crossroads- where you turn right along the track past Bolam West Houses.Follow the rough track to the rather splendid run of railway sleepers laid by the enterprising Mr Robson,whose family have farmed here for generations. You emerge from the walled in track onto an open field. Usually there are cars parked on the right. Follow the vague track along close to the wall on the right through a gate and soon you’ll be riding over sheets of flat rock with dramatic views.And come to Salters Nick, where the ancient narrow road to Scotland descends in a narrow cleft.
The descent can be a bit daunting, but don’t worry , the next ones worse. That’s a joke! Seriously, if I can manage it you can. When I went to learn downhill mountain bike skills at Glentress the only thing the instructor could praise was my superb puncture fixing ability. So you pick your line, free up your feet , come back out of the saddle and (if you’re me) brake while your trusty wheels find their way over and through the fixed and loose rock.You get a grassy breather before the next dascent . This is more on (June 2023) dry mud, a bit steeper but with a bit of grassy run off at the bottom.
Now its through a gate and along the grassy track , steering round awkward trees. More gates and keep following the wall on your right. About 1 Km past the Nick the wall and track angles left. The path is nice and smooth but rather hemmed in by gorse, and currently (June 15), unless youre very very thin or standing on your saddle you will feel it, but not for long. You approach Shaftoe Moor Farm.
The map shows the bridle path running intrusively next to the house , through the garden, which is currently packed with pygmy goats and a horse and pony. Decency suggests its best to skirt round to the left,until a gate lets you enter the Farmyard, turning left to leave on the access track.
Wallington and Home
From the track its right onto the quiet tarmac of the ‘Dipper’ road. Bear right at the junction with the road to Wallington and its down over the bridge and cajole those tired legs up the bank . Turn into the car park and be enticed onto the bike trails by a large green sign at the north end of the car park. Over the wooden bridge and round the s bend before turning right. Follow this bike trail through gates and round bends to reach the back road into the village .