SV Moya

SV Moya The lifetimes and adventures of SV Moya, a 1980 Westerly 36 ketch.

From the Island of Flowers to the Island of Nature 🌺🌿Once Carnival was over, it was time to move on. We spent over two m...
03/04/2025

From the Island of Flowers to the Island of Nature 🌺🌿

Once Carnival was over, it was time to move on. We spent over two months in Martinique and we can honestly say—it’s paradise. Lush greenery, incredible beaches, and some unforgettable adventures. We found some epic trail runs through the mangroves, helped organize a beach BBQ for fellow cruisers, and regularly snorkelled with turtles.

One of the biggest highlights (besides Carnival, of course!) was exploring the island’s forests. On a particularly memorable trip we headed inland in search of some waterfalls we’d heard so much about. The hike started along a river, weaving through dense tropical forest, until we reached the first waterfall—an idyllic spot for lunch while watching people splash around and swim under the waterfall. But the real magic came on the way to the second waterfall. The path led through the river, sometimes knee-deep in crystal-clear water, trying not to splash too much and scare away the lizards sunning themselves on the rocks beside us. The upper waterfall was spectacular and we jumped in for a swim. There was no swimming under this waterfall though as the impressive force of the wind and current from the falls made trying to reach it really difficult! Moments like these make this journey so special.

Next, we made the short hop to Dominica—not to be confused with the Dominican Republic! Often referred to as Jurassic Park without the dinosaurs, this island is 75% rainforest, filled with thermal springs, crater lakes, and more waterfalls than we can count. Unfortunately, Carnival left us both with a brutal cold that took us both weeks to get over, so we barely scratched the surface here. One attraction that really caught our eye though was the Caribbean’s longest hiking trail—the Waitukubuli National Trail- a 180km trek split into 14 segments. Kathryn’s already planning to come back next year to hike the whole thing in one go… camping along the way. If anyone’s crazy enough to join us, bring a hammock!

After nearly two weeks of feeling rough, we finally made it out for a walk. Anchored in Portsmouth Bay, we explored an old English colonial fort in Cabrits national park—some parts restored, others lost to time. There was once multiple fortifications spread around the Cabrits- once island, now peninsula. 10km of exploring later we were feeling really refreshed and energised. It's amazing how some fresh air and forest vibes can improve your mood after being hunkered down onboard a small boat. That was until Duncan managed to twist his ankle on the way down. So much for thermal springs, lakes, and waterfalls this time! Looks like we’ll have to come back.

Next stop: Guadeloupe! Stay tuned for the next adventure. ⛵🌊

We arrived in Fort de France shortly before carnival and watched as the city geared up for this years festivities. Most ...
10/03/2025

We arrived in Fort de France shortly before carnival and watched as the city geared up for this years festivities. Most of the shops seemed to be selling fancy dress clothing. Well, the clothing bit seems to be optional. We've never seen so many mannequins in skimpy knickers and fishnet socks, stockings, gloves and bodysuits. It was promising to be an interesting party!

The start of the carnival weekend (Saturday) was pretty lowkey. A small parade of the carnaval queens, past and present, looking lovely in the sunshine.

Carnival proper began on Dimanche Gras (Fat Sunday), where we met the star of the show: Vaval, the Carnival King. King Vaval is a giant puppet that represents a satirical caricature of an event or concept that marked the previous year. This year he was a giant rat, holding a world in a cage, held in turn by a snake and wearing gold rings with currency symbols spelling out the word "jews". The rat, depicted as opulent and covered in gold, symbolized greed and corruption, reflecting public sentiment towards certain societal behaviours. Ironically, it had to be remade for the final days ceremony. We assume someone took offense, as it was somehow set on fire during the carnival a day early. Not to be outdone by a premature pyrotechnic display, 12 of the resourceful organisers whipped up a new Vaval overnight. It wasn't quite as impressive as the original but it was good to see the new one rising from the ashes to carry on its message.

A common feature throughout the carnival was the crazy cars or bwadjacks. Chopped up and souped-up cars blasting political satire and current events. These vehicles amplify the festivals exuberance and allow participants to express dissent and humour through creative means. Their car horns were insane and the explosions from the their exhausts sounded like gun fire, continuing long into the night.

Lundi Gras (Fat Monday) was burlesque wedding day. The guys in dresses and the girls in bowties. We were starting to realise why the shops sold so much fishnet clothing! And to be fair I think the guys carried it off really well. Aside from the brides in white, today was all the colours of the rainbow for costumes.

Next came Mardi Gras (French for "Fat Tuesday") and the streets transformed into a sea of red and black. This day is traditionally the last opportunity to indulge in rich, fatty foods before the onset of Lent, a period of fasting and penitence in Christian tradition. Revellers, dressed as "red devils" and donning vibrant costumes adorned with mirrors and horns, filled the streets with energy through music and dance. Looking into the city from Moyas' deck was an amazing sight - it was just a wall of red as everyone lined the streets.

Among the many vibrant characters of the carnival, the Nèg Gwo Siwo (participants covered head to toe in molasses and charcoal) stood out, and they were out en masse for Mardi Gras. These figures pay homage to the island's history, symbolizing the resilience of enslaved Africans who once worked the sugar plantations. You've got to watch out as they charge around as that stuff is pretty sticky. Helpfully, you can typically smell the molasses even before you see them. Even so, Kathryn came back to Moya covered after getting a little too close.

The festivities concluded on Wednesday, referred to as Mercredi des Cendres (Ash Wednesday). Participants dressed in black and white to mourn the ceremonial burning of Vaval, symbolizing the end of the Carnival. It was quite a shock visually after how vibrantly coloured the streets had been since we arrived. We watched from Moya, as poor old King Vival burned for a second time, reflecting on another amazing experience in paradise.

We've tried to capture in photos and videos some of the sights but it's a challenging experience to due justice to. There's so much going on, you're often right in the thick of it and its hard to focus on one thing. If you really want to know what it's like, you'll just have to come join us for carnival 2026!

Fair winds and following seas.

An Atlantic Crossing, Caribbean Adventures and now Carnival Awaits!It’s been a while since our last update—back in Decem...
28/02/2025

An Atlantic Crossing, Caribbean Adventures and now Carnival Awaits!

It’s been a while since our last update—back in December, we set sail from Mindelo, bound for Barbados. 18 days at sea, endless horizons, and the magic of the open ocean brought us to Port St. Charles.

Barbados was amazing—so lush and green after the dry landscapes of the Canaries and Cape Verde. We spent nearly two weeks soaking in island life—Speightstown’s charm, a breathtaking New Year’s Eve fireworks display in Bridgetown, hikes through lush trails, and swimming alongside sea turtles.

From there, we sailed to Martinique, where we’ve been taking our time exploring. Le Marin greeted us with well-stocked shops (a luxury after Cape Verde and Barbados!), and St. Anne’s anchorage left us in awe—turquoise waters, white sandy beaches, and an unforgettable trail run through mangroves and palms. Hummingbirds flitted around us as if to say, “Welcome to paradise.”

Now, we’re in Fort-de-France, the heart of Martinique, gearing up for the four-day Carnival this weekend. If the energy here is anything to go by, it’s going to be spectacular!

More updates soon—until then, fair winds! 🌊⛵🏝️

Quick real-time update: Tomorrow we set sail on our longest passage yet. We leave Mindelo in the Cape Verde islands and ...
07/12/2024

Quick real-time update:
Tomorrow we set sail on our longest passage yet. We leave Mindelo in the Cape Verde islands and head across the Atlantic ocean to Barbados.
We're hoping to make landfall around Christmas day.
See you on the other side.

The Spanish Rias, located in Galicia in the north-west corner of Spain, provide a fun cruising ground. The extensive ria...
04/09/2024

The Spanish Rias, located in Galicia in the north-west corner of Spain, provide a fun cruising ground. The extensive rias are well sheltered from the Atlantic swell and provide numerous anchorages beside white sandy beaches surrounded by pine and eucalypt forest. Good wine and food are abundant (especially if you enjoy seafood) and there’s a variety of places to stop, ranging from more secluded bays to big cities.
The beauty of this area, which was originally intended to be a brief stop on our way to the Med and Tunisia, would be the final nail in the coffin for that plan – but the birth of a different amazing adventure.
Find out more about what we loved whilst exploring the northern rias in our latest blog post:
https://svmoya.wordpress.com/2024/09/04/discovering-galicia-a-spanish-wonderland/

What were you doing a year ago? This time last year we had recently completed our crossing of the Bay of Biscay and were...
18/08/2024

What were you doing a year ago? This time last year we had recently completed our crossing of the Bay of Biscay and were enjoying the sunshine, good food, and natural splendour of Galicia, Spain. We explored battlement ruins by sunset, found our favourite cider, sampled local seafood, and got ourselves settled in for exploring the Spanish Rias.

See our blog post for more stories and photos from our first taste of Spain: https://svmoya.wordpress.com/2024/08/18/our-first-taste-of-spain/

What a difference a couple of days make.We spent the weekend on the Beautiful Barra beach, enjoying a sunny and warm 25 ...
27/03/2024

What a difference a couple of days make.
We spent the weekend on the Beautiful Barra beach, enjoying a sunny and warm 25 degrees.
Not so much today, or for the rest of the week.

A bit foggy this morning.
18/03/2024

A bit foggy this morning.

We're back. After nearly 4 months away from Moya (the longest we have ever left her for) we are finally sat at anchor, b...
01/03/2024

We're back. After nearly 4 months away from Moya (the longest we have ever left her for) we are finally sat at anchor, bobbing about, with the wind gusting, the rain pouring, and it's bliss.

We've just had our first sail of the season. A very short affair, it has to said, about 3 nautical miles in total, but enough to put a smile on our faces after all the hard work of the past 3 weeks.

Galicia and the Rias of Northwestern Spain are so unexpectedly beautiful that we used up nearly all our 90-day visa just exploring here last year. The season was coming to an end and even though the weather was still warm and sunny, the white sandy beaches were mainly deserted. It was awesome.

But we had plans to head South, so we began to stock up the freezer and cupboards. We did loads of trips to the supermarkets on our bikes, coming back loaded up with food, it was exhausting. We cooked extra serves of every meal we had, for the freezer. We had enough for two meals a day for a week. Cooking on a moving boat whilst sailing is hard and it has the habit of making us feel sick, so we try to avoid it. Having the meals prepped would minimise time down below cooking, all we would have to do was re-heat a meal, or at most cook some pasta or rice to go with a sauce.

Feeling very happy with our efforts, we waited patiently for a good weather window, and we waited, and we waited some more, but all the wind that came was heading North, which wasn't any good for us, and then our batteries decided to die. When you're living at anchor you rely on your batteries for everything. They keep the fridge freezer working, all the lights and plugs to charge phones, laptops, all our navigation instruments, all gone. It wasn't all bad. I didn't have to cook for a week, we had a freezer full of defrosting food that just needed re-heating.

We had no power, our visas were almost expired, so we couldn't stay and sort this out. With our options limited we decided to take Moya out of the water and leave her in the safe hands of Marina Davila in Vigo.

That was Moya taken care of, now all we had to do was decide what we were going to do. It didn't take long. We had talked about going to Turkey when we first bought Moya. We thought it would be amazing chilling on our boat there, traveling around and seeing some of their ancient sites. Just because we had no boat for 3 months, didn't mean we had to stop our adventure. So we packed a rucksack each, got a taxi to the airport and flew to Istanbul.
(we will update our blog to include this trip at some point. It was amazing)

We flew back to the UK from Turkey to spend some quality time with family before heading back to Spain. We’ve been here for 3 weeks now getting Moya ready to go back in the water. As we weren't allowed to stay on board while she was out of the water we had to stay in a little apartment which was less than 10 minutes away by bike. It was on the third floor in the roof. Duncan got stuck in the lift last week when it stopped between floors with him in it, but he was on his way back from the supermarket at the time so he was well stocked up with supplies to get him through the thirty minute ordeal. Apart from that it's been very nice.

The new battery set up is nearly finished, thanks mostly to Kathryn. Moya's hull has been sanded, a small repair done near the rudder, and she’s had three fresh coats of antifoul. She looks lovely.
The weather here has been very up and down. When we arrived back it was warm and sunny, but we’ve also had several storms blow through. It's been quite stressful, trying to get everything done in between the heavy down pours. But we did it, and Moya was lifted back in on Monday morning. We put the sails back on and gave her a good scrub and here we are. Anchored, just outside Moana, bobbing about in the rain, with the wind gusting outside and we couldn't be happier....

We’re trying something new – Check out our blog site for a full update and all the photos, or there’s a brief update bel...
26/09/2023

We’re trying something new – Check out our blog site for a full update and all the photos, or there’s a brief update below. Hopefully, the new format makes for a more entertaining read and helps to match up locations, photos and stories. Let us know whether you like it, or whether you just want it on Facebook. We’ve written up our journey from Dale to Spain so far, and will get up to date soon.

We’ve also been sharing a few photos on Instagram, so check that out if you’d like somewhat more regular updates (at least more often than on Facebook!).

We never made it to the Scilly’s, but we did finally escape the weekly low-pressure systems in SW England to get across Biscay to Spain. We’ve been spending the past 2 months slowly exploring the beautiful Rias of Galicia – large, sheltered estuaries containing numerous small bays with beautiful beaches surrounded by pine and eucalypt forests. We’re still a long way from Tunisia (our planned winter destination) and we’ve been dreading the trip south of here past Portugal and through Orca Alley; the allure of the Caribbean is increasingly taking hold of our thoughts.
https://svmoya.wordpress.com/2023/09/26/escaping-the-uk/

14/07/2023

We've had many lovely days at anchor, but today isn't really one of them!

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