03/01/2026
Cracking day with .carrick heading up Great Tower Buttress - The Knave Variation (IV, 5) which was a good winter adventure up on the East Face of Bristly Ridge.
Pitch 1 - climbs as summer route up the cracked rib to easier ground to belay below the obvious crack. IV.
Pitch 2 - skirt the summer crux crack by sneaking left to get above it, the first winter ascent team went up a small ramp then up a flake left of the summer line. We opted to rejoin the summer line after skirting the crux crack, squeezing up the short chimney giving well protected IV, 5.
Pitch 3 - as the summer line, scramble over the pinnacled ridge and up a step to belay on the left below the large flake III.
Pitch 4 - as the summer line, except starting to the left of the flake, then up the broken groove, finishing to the right on turf for the final moves. Great pitch of winter climbing, good gear and nice moves, IV, 5. Possibly could avoid this pitch if by heading round to the right and what appears to be easier ground.
Pitch 5 - skirt the summer line by heading left up easier ground, to gain Bristly Ridge III/IV. Scramble off then descend back down the scree. I had a look at the summer line up the tower, good gear but got stopped just before the bulge at steep moves with poor feet. Maybe one for another time.
Conditions - Bristly Ridge was already rimed up nicely before the snow which we'd spied a couple days prior when heading up Tryfan, more so than high cliffs such as Clogwyn Du. The new snow was mostly loose and unconsolidated. Turf frozen after multiple cold days with no insulating snow - axe and crampon placements coming out clean, but there's not been any freeze/thaw cycles and the ground was pretty dry beforehand, so would suggest sticking to predominantly mixed routes still for now. Any complaints about perceived winteriness please do report me to the Cymru BMC access officer.
Pic 1 Tom leading up the 1st pitch.
Pics 2 - 8 Tom following up the chimney on the 2nd pitch.
Pics 9 - 13 Tom following up the great 4th pitch.