01/09/2026
Back in March: Voice note from Luis Eyre
“First surf back after 7 weeks off. Twins had just arrived, Ellis’s parents gave us a window, forecast finally cleaned up. Hadn’t done a single thing physical besides carrying tiny babies and the school run. Got out there with Trevor and Felipe grabbed his camera. Got a really fun wave deep down the point, then a horrendous double-up straight on the head. Dove, felt the impact and instantly felt my board was gone, it sent me so deep, one of the worst hold-downs of my life!
Came up facing the cliffs. Hazy, and there’s five people on their phones filming me. Got a couple more on the head, washed all the way down the point. Swam in. Board had bounced off every rock on the reef. Brand new fins, gone, Board completely annihilated.
The repair guy says he needs to find some free time before he’ll even take it on, ha it’s that’s bad!
Really fun surf, horrendous end...Highs and lows.”
Luis Eyre // // 📹 Felipe Cαntieri
