Jay Favel - First Gen SkiDoo Rev

Jay Favel - First Gen SkiDoo Rev Information about the first gen SkiDoo Rev and things you might want to know.

12/07/2023

Easily remove the self piercing rivets by first drilling them from the back with a cobalt drill. Then use an air hammer while pushing on the other side with a 10mm socket over the rivet head for a solid backing.

A punch and hammer will work too if you have a helper.

An easy way to remove the self piercing rivets when just grinding the head flush isn’t an option, like when removing the...
12/07/2023

An easy way to remove the self piercing rivets when just grinding the head flush isn’t an option, like when removing the rear cooler, is to drill from the back and then punch the rest of the rivet out.

I use a 3/8” cobalt drill, regular HSS drills will dull quickly. Drill most of the material off the back but leave a small amount sitting proud of the surface. You can smooth it out afterwards.

An air hammer makes quick work of punching the rest out. Use something solid to go around the head of the rivet. A 10mm socket works good, I use a piece of a jack shaft as it has more weight to it. Then use an air hammer on the back while pushing against the other side to make it solid.

If you don’t have an air hammer, 2 people using a hammer and punch and something solid will work too.

Video posted separately.

12/29/2022

To not strip the screws for the seal retainer when removing them with a 4mm hex bit, strike each one solidly with a punch and hammer first. They’ll usually come out by hand afterwards with little chance of stripping them.

An impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) or pounding in a T27 Torx work well too.

03 to 09 Ski-Doo Rev Bulkhead / Nun Brace Kits / Coolant and Oil Sleeves / Clutch SpacersThese 🍁MADE IN MANITOBA🍁 Bulkhe...
11/17/2022

03 to 09 Ski-Doo Rev Bulkhead / Nun Brace Kits / Coolant and Oil Sleeves / Clutch Spacers

These 🍁MADE IN MANITOBA🍁 Bulkhead Braces and Coolant/Oil Tank Sleeves are A MUST for every 03 to 09 first gen Ski-Doo Rev chassis.

90%+ of Rev chassis sleds are already tweaked or bent, yes even the majority of the ones for sale listed as "mint", "straight" etc, I've stripped over 75 of them, which is how I know EVERY Rev chassis can benefit from these braces.

This brace kit is designed to reinforce and/or repair your 2003 to 2009 SkiDoo Rev bulkhead. If anything is bent, you need to straighten that first before adding the braces. These have been designed from and tested on multiple chassis' to assure proper fitment and precise bend angles that fit the chassis exactly as intended making them the absolute best fitting brace kit for Revs available.

Includes 3 pieces for exhaust side, 1 piece for clutch side, 2 nun corner braces, lower steering brace and stainless steel hardware. Basic installation instructions included, a pneumatic rivet gun is needed to pull the included stainless rivets.

Nun Corner Braces and inner exhaust side piece are .100”, the outer exhaust side pieces and steering brace are .125” and the clutch side is .188”. All pieces are 5052 H32 aluminum. Rivets are 3/16" multi grip with stainless body and stainless mandrel with 950 lbs shear strength and 1050 lbs tensile strength. Nun to bulkhead bolts are stainless 5/16-24. Steering brace bolts are zinc plated steel.

✔️Brace kits, sleeves, spacers are made in Manitoba, Canada.

🔹Prices for Canada
$235 shipped for full length 7 piece kit
$175 shipped for short 7 piece kit
$30 spacer to float secondary clutch for reduced belt/clutch heat and wear
$33 (pair) coolant and oil tank sleeves shipped ($20 if buying braces)
$23 for either coolant or oil tank sleeve shipped

🔹Prices for US
$195 USD shipped for full length 7 piece kit, including AK
$145 USD shipped for short 7 piece kit, including AK
$35 USD for clutch spacer shipped ($25 is buying braces)
$35 USD for coolant and oil sleeves shipped ($20 if buying braces)
$25 USD for coolant sleeve shipped

All orders are shipped from Lockport, Manitoba.

The coolant sleeve and oil sleeves are another must for every Rev. If your coolant cap is hard to get on and off, leaks or your oil cap leaks, these sleeves will make the hole round and keep it round so the caps can seal/install/remove as intended.

The clutch spacer allows the secondary clutch to float for better clutch alignment, allowing for reduced heat in the clutches/belt, and longer belt life and more power getting to the track.

Tracking or proof of shipping provided promptly, PayPal "goods and services" for US, etransfer, PayPal or credit cards through Square for Canadians.

Added a couple more options for the exhaust and PTO side braces and testing a few other pieces.
09/10/2022

Added a couple more options for the exhaust and PTO side braces and testing a few other pieces.

Are your shocks mounted correctly?Here's some pictures to help explain why it matters what side the piggy back shocks ar...
12/07/2021

Are your shocks mounted correctly?

Here's some pictures to help explain why it matters what side the piggy back shocks are mounted on.

The piggy back reservoir should be aligned to fit inside the a arms rather than coming into contact with them.

This is a bent rod from a hydro locked 800 due to a leaking center crank seal. Sled was stored in the off season with a ...
12/01/2021

This is a bent rod from a hydro locked 800 due to a leaking center crank seal. Sled was stored in the off season with a full tank of oil. The owner had poured fuel in each cylinder after it not wanting to start and accomplished this on his third try.

Second picture is where the oil level will drop to if a center crank seal is leaking. That’s the level where the fill line connects to fill the center cavity.

Excessive oil usage, oil in the exhaust pipe, oil on floor under muffler when sleds running, can be signs of a leaky center crank seal.

If you have these symptoms, don’t store the sled for extended periods with the oil tank full.

11/24/2021

To remove the factory nun to bulkhead rivets, the easiest method is to grind the heads of the rivets off. Then use an air hammer with something solid held against the backside. They pop out instantly.

If using a hammer and punch, having a solid backing is crucial.

To power up the gauges on a Rev that doesn't run, find the diagnostics connector next to the coolant bottle and unplug i...
11/23/2021

To power up the gauges on a Rev that doesn't run, find the diagnostics connector next to the coolant bottle and unplug it from it's cover. I popped out the green plastic piece to expose the pins more but you don't need to. Put power to the middle pin on the right and ground to the bottom pin on the left and the gauges will power up.

Here’s the pictures a few people asked for that show where to look for damage on a Rev.To be clear, I’m not trying to te...
11/22/2021

Here’s the pictures a few people asked for that show where to look for damage on a Rev.

To be clear, I’m not trying to tell anyone not to buy a sled because it’s bent, implying they should buy a new nun, or that they should fix or even care about their bulkhead being bent/cracked if they don’t want to.

Most of this can’t be seen easily without removing the muffler if stock, clutch, pipe etc. The full extent of the damage isn’t easily noticed without completely stripping and cleaning the chassis. I didn’t realize how common this is until after I had stripped around 20 of them, I’m at 70 now. I degrease and inspect all of them even though some are dirty in the pics, I mainly used old pics I already had rather than sort through stacks of carcasses for new ones. These pictures don’t show everything, just some of the common things to look for.

The number one reason to suspect the bulkhead is bent or tweaked, is knowing that it’s a Rev.🤷🏻‍♂️ 90+% of them have tweaked/bent bulkheads (not referring to the nun). The bulkhead isn’t easily replaceable as it’s one piece on each side from the front pan to the back of the tunnel, the nun and front pan are replaceable.

This is only my opinion from my experience over the past 10 years stripping these sleds I’ve bought that are not crashed/written off. They’re regular driving sleds or blown up. I don’t buy many rough looking sleds for parts, I look for nice sleds because beat looking sleds are typically full of worn out parts.

People have varying degrees of attention to detail, many people can’t see where they’re bent or even care, I have people deny it before my eyes every day. If you don’t care, cool this post isn’t intended for you.

There’s descriptions with each picture.

Address

Lockport, MB

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