14/03/2017
I'm taking the good with the bad, recently I was told my knees are bone on bone. My knees have finally given in and it has killed my surfing, sooooo bloody devastated. Surfing is my everything. After being out of the water for a while with one knee sprain I hit the waves with my paipo, now the paipo that I shape took me a long time to get right. I found the perfect size and style of board in the end, by shaving it down and down so for it to be really fun and free. I wanted to have the feeling of body surfing but with enough board to choose where you want to be on the wave. Soooo many barrels it's crazy. I fell in love with this totally different style of surfing, the freedom and feeling the Hawaiians had when they discovered surfing on this very board. My long time friend Tim Kolln came to Golden Bay to stay and hoped to get a good dose of waves. First session I threw him my paipo and Sunshine had too much fun to the fact that he got me shaping, I pointed me old mate in the right direction and I finished the fine tuning, wasn't much. Also got me shaping a paipo that's been in my mind for a while. Really very much looking forward to trying the tear drop. I'm designing the shape of my boards to be an extension of the body. With this my love for surfing continues a path that is cool.