Exped Performance.

Exped Performance. Providing advanced training workshops and tailored training programmes in preperation for expedition

Unfortunately due to the warm weather on Mount Ushba, the risk of avalanches & falling rock has meant we have decided no...
20/08/2019

Unfortunately due to the warm weather on Mount Ushba, the risk of avalanches & falling rock has meant we have decided not to go ahead with the climb. However we will be climbing Mount Tetnuldi instead which actually sits higher at 4858m but is safer considering the conditions. We will be heading for camp 1 tomorrow morning β›°πŸƒβ€β™‚οΈβ€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”
πŸ‡¬πŸ‡ͺ @ Tetnuldi Mountain.

Challenge IdeaπŸ’‘πŸŒ„                                                    Fancy hiking the highest mountains in England all in...
12/06/2019

Challenge IdeaπŸ’‘πŸŒ„
Fancy hiking the highest mountains in England all in one day? πŸ”

This challenge is known as the Lake 3000’s and covers 44 miles all in one day. This challenge should be completed in 24hrs.

Start in Keswick and then cover the following:
Skiddaw 3054ft
Scafell 3164ft
Scafell Pike 3208ft
Helvellyn 3112 ft

Good Luck! Post your times πŸ•°

’s

Experienced high altitude hikers thinking about taking the next step? Island Peak is the perfect introduction to full al...
13/05/2019

Experienced high altitude hikers thinking about taking the next step?

Island Peak is the perfect introduction to full alpine mountaineering. Although you do not need previous technical climbing experience as your guide can teach you all the skills you need while you are on the expedition, you will need to be physically prepared for this trip as it’s a very long enduring ascent.

Get in touch with us at Expedperformance to assist in your preparation for this trip or something similar

πŸ§—β€β™‚οΈβ›°πŸ“ˆ

AEROBIC/ ENDURANCE TRAINING (PART 6) - INTERVAL TRAINING --Interval training can often be overlooked when training for l...
26/04/2019

AEROBIC/ ENDURANCE TRAINING (PART 6) - INTERVAL TRAINING
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Interval training can often be overlooked when training for long duration challenges. However, it should form a key part of any training programme and it provides many positive adaptations. With correct interval durations and rest, individuals can perform much higher amounts of intense activity.
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Adaptations from interval training include many of the positive adaptations seen in continuous training. Interval training is also ideal if you dont have the time needed to fit a long continuous training session into your programme on that day. It allows for varying stimuli and can fit nicely in a smaller time slot.
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Now when programming your own sessions think about the work to rest ratio (work:rest). If looking to train the aerobic system a work to rest ration of 1:1 usual recommended. For example working for 60s allows oxygen consumption to rapidly increase and then the 60s rest period means you start again before complete recovery. This results in cardiovascular and aerobic metabolic stress reaching near peak levels with repeated but relatively short exercise intervals.
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For less lactate build up think about lowering the duration of the work interval down to 10s and increasing the rest period. Work intervals this short in nature are predominately alactic (produce less lactate) and recover rapidly. If your aim is to improve lactate threshold then you may want to work for 30s intervals which is also a great duration for stimulating cellular adaptations.
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Any questions drop us a message πŸ’ͺ
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AEROBIC/ENDURANCE TRAINING (PART 5) - CONTINUOUS TRAINING--Now we have touched on this a bit previously but thought it's...
25/04/2019

AEROBIC/ENDURANCE TRAINING (PART 5) - CONTINUOUS TRAINING
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Now we have touched on this a bit previously but thought it's worth delving a bit deeper.
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Continuous training involves prolonged activity at moderate or high intensity approximately between 60-90% of heart rate max. Due to its submaxmial nature it's a great way for beginners who want to build on their work capacity. Additionally it serves as a way to build a large calorific expenditure when looking for weight loss. On the flip side it serves its purpose for the elite. Either as means to develop aerobic fitness or it can slot into a lower impact training day or active recovery. It's also great for stimulating adaptations on a cellular level.
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We would recommend continuous training sessions are at least 20 in duration. Depending on training history and intensity the duration should/can be far longer in nature. The longer and higher intensities are likely to stimulate more adaptations as long as it's not too much too soon. Think about incrementally increasing the duration and intensities of your sessions. See our last post for guideline on intensity.
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Now when deciding what equipment to use... For beginners/ any athlete in general preparation ski erg, rower, wattbike, and swimming are great means for developing those general adaptations talked about in part 1. As these are non weight bearing there is minimal impact which is ideal for beginners or athletes in general preparation/ deloading/ rehabbing an injury.
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When getting closer to the expedition or challenge the continuous training needs to more closely mimic the training intensity/ duration and biomechanics of said challenge. Early specific training for mountaineering may include long duration hill walks leading into weighted mountaineering closer to the expedition as its shifts to more specific work.
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Any questions fire away πŸ€™
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AEROBIC/ ENDURANCE TRAINING (PART 4) - TRAIN AT PERCENTAGE OF HEART RATE MAX --Previously we have spoken about training ...
24/04/2019

AEROBIC/ ENDURANCE TRAINING (PART 4) - TRAIN AT PERCENTAGE OF HEART RATE MAX
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Previously we have spoken about training at certain intensities that are calculated from heart rate max so we thought we would go a bit deeper on the topic...
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Training for aerobic adaptations does not mean having to work at your upper limits all the time. Research has shown 70% (moderate activity) of heart rate max is sufficient to stimulate adaptations.
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When looking to maximise adaptations generally the higher the training intensity the greater the improvements for VO2max. Furthermore, fitter individuals have a higher threshold for creating positive adaptations. The ceiling in training intensity is thought to be around 90% heart rate max.
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More exercise at higher intensities does not necessarily produce greater or faster results. Acute increases in training volume can increase risk of injury and the likelihood of over training.
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To conclude for men and women below the age of 60 the lower limit of heart rate max for cardiovascular adaptations is around 60-70%. The upper limit target heart rate equals about 90%.
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Previous calculations for heart rate max used the following equation:
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HRmax = 220 - age (y)
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However we recommend using this modified version:
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HRmax = 206.9 - 0.67 x age (y)
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22/04/2019

AEROBIC ENDURANCE TRAINING (PART 3) - THE WHEN
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Now when considering when to implement this form of training into your programme you need to consider a few things. Think about your training history I.e how long for and what kind of training you have been doing. Consider how long you have until your challenge or expedition.
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If you are a couple of months or more away from your challenge then you can use more general types of training aimed at general adaptations that form the "building blocks" of your performance (see part 1). The closer you get to the challenge the more endurance training should shift to match the demands of that challenge.
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If you would like to learn more about how to periodise your training drop us a line πŸ‘Š we will be posting some example sessions for you all to enjoy to help! Hope your bank holidays have been adventurous!-

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19/04/2019

ENDURANCE/ AEROBIC TRAINING (PART 2) - THE HOW

3 things to consider when designing your endurance/ aerobic training programme.
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THE MODE - mode of training needs to be carefully picked in accordance with the timing of your programme. Consider the adaptations you want to make I.e early on general cardiac (see the last post) or more specific structural changes.
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THE FREQUENCY - aim for at least 2 sessions weekly also training max intensity everyday won’t allow you to recover and varying intensity can actually be more beneficial.
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THE INTENSITY - consider this coinciding with frequency, vary your intensity to allow for recovery and it can also be more beneficial for those training adaptations.
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15/04/2019

AEROBIC/ENDURANCE TRAINING - THE WHY
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Ben covering just a few of the beneficial adaptations from aerobic training for mountaineering. Aerobic training adaptations include:
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⬆️ Blood Plasma Volume
⬆️ Stroke Volume (amount of blood pumped by the heart per beat
⬆️ Cardiac out (amount of blood pumped per minute)
⬆️ Oxygen extraction (the body’s efficiency at utilising oxygen in the blood
⬆️ Size and number of mitochondria in muscle fibres - more ATP (muscles fuel) produced aerobically
⬆️ Increased physical effort before the onset of lactate accumulation
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As you can see there are many positive adaptations which are critical for increasing performance at high altitude where there are less oxygen particles due to a decrease in partial pressure.

Next post... THE HOW

Last one from us... Crib Goch offered some great scrambling and views. Awesome days training for team Exped and we've go...
13/04/2019

Last one from us... Crib Goch offered some great scrambling and views. Awesome days training for team Exped and we've got some new content for all you guys dropping this week all around aerobic/endurance training covering the why, the how, and the when.

Snowdonia really does offer a great place for some hiking/ scrambling/ bouldering with amazing views. One of natures gre...
13/04/2019

Snowdonia really does offer a great place for some hiking/ scrambling/ bouldering with amazing views. One of natures great playgrounds we just love the place 😍

Specific training day during general prep for the team. We really enjoyed these views from Crib Goch Pinnacies.         ...
13/04/2019

Specific training day during general prep for the team. We really enjoyed these views from Crib Goch Pinnacies.

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