02/12/2022
Surfing, if you see the abundance of actionshots coming by on this feed you might think I’ve forgotten about the beauty and depth of the sports- lifestyle (?)- culture which goes way beyond the shortlived moments surfers actually spend up and riding on their boards.
The first light surfchecks on chilly morning with still sleepy eyes breathing in the fresh salty air while seeing perfectly groomed waves by offshore winds in pastel coloured sunrise skies.
Sunset sessions leaving you in awe, feeling the raw power and untamable energy of nature, trying to make it your ally rather than en enemy. There’s no use in fighting a fight you can never win, yet as soon as you think you master her, you get a humbling pounding, a thorough clean up through the wave washing machine, letting you know who is boss.
Surfing connects and bonds… there is no pleasure in riding waves without being able to share them with friends. I feel forever grateful for the countless encounters with once strangers in the water who became friends, all over the world, without needing to tell we know and feel we share an incredible passion.
Surfing makes you live in the moment. I’ve written it before. Having a history and vulnerability for mental health issues, surfing and surfphotography are a huge indispensable part of my therapy. Floating around at sea, watching the horizon, being rocked by the ocean like a baby in its cradle.
It pulls me out of my mind, calms my thoughts just like mindfulness meditation does, without I soon get restless and lose myself.
So much more I could write , but thank you surfing, thank you ocean, thank you mother nature.
1) contemplation
2) beautiful sunrise surf
3)idem
4) Hossegor to Capbreton view
5) pre surf, perfect light,m.
6) 1000 km’s from home and bumping into your surfing friend
7) checking, mindsurfing, belly tickle
8) no risk, no glory
9) , no words needed to feel we share the love for the surf
10) just nearly escaping a roaring washing machine.